Topic: Is heater core bad ?
in Forum: C3 Cooling and Heating Systems
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Late last summer I installed shut off valves on both heater hoses. I was very happy with the resulting lack of excessive heat. The car ran great and seemed not to run any hotter.
However, along the lines of what Joel mentioned, I did wonder if the lack of coolant flow back in to the intake manifold area could cause a problem.
So now I'm wondering if we can have the best of both worlds;
Are there shut off valves available with 1 inlet and 2 outlets?
I'm thinking that a valve of this type could allow for coolant to be allowed in to the heater core as needed and otherwise be looped to the second heater hose that allows coolant to pass back thru the intake manifold.
Any ideas?
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[QUOTE=KDADDY79]Late last summer I installed shut off valves on both heater hoses. I was very happy with the resulting lack of excessive heat. The car ran great and seemed not to run any hotter.
[/QUOTE] I'm in favor of keeping the flow of the coolant. The water pump is constantly attempting to pump.........whether the stat is open or not.
However, along the lines of what Joel mentioned, I did wonder if the lack of coolant flow back in to the intake manifold area could cause a problem.
So now I'm wondering if we can have the best of both worlds;
Are there shut off valves available with 1 inlet and 2 outlets?
I'm thinking that a valve of this type could allow for coolant to be allowed in to the heater core as needed and otherwise be looped to the second heater hose that allows coolant to pass back thru the intake manifold.
Any ideas?
corvette440hp
Hey "440",
That makes me think of simply running a joined (both sizes) heater hose from the water pump right back in to the intake manifold. This would obviously leave the heater core "out of the loop".
My reason for not doing that was to leave some coolant in the heater core so as not to let it dry out and go bad.
Does this make any sense?
Tinbender,
I hope I havn't blown this up and confused you.
I think there's an answer in here for both of us.
Kevin
[QUOTE=KDADDY79]Hey "440",
That makes me think of simply running a joined (both sizes) heater hose from the water pump right back in to the intake manifold. This would obviously leave the heater core "out of the loop".
My reason for not doing that was to leave some coolant in the heater core so as not to let it dry out and go bad.
Does this make any sense?
Tinbender,
I hope I havn't blown this up and confused you.
I think there's an answer in here for both of us.
Kevin
[/QUOTE] Looping the hoses together will create a flow path. I'm rebuilding my 74 from the ground up, and not even going with a heater core, just AC. What I did was to connect a fitting on the intake manifold, that was before the t-stat, with another fitting on the top of the water pump. I made up a stainless (Russell) hose to connect from the manifold to pump. When the stat opens, the flow goes to the radiator, flow in the path of the least resistance.corvette440hp

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Kevin, you're right in thinking that leaving some coolant in the core will help keep it from rotting when not in use.
You can have a "bypass" system for the heater core that will block coolant from circulating thu it, but still allow it to circulate thru the hoses, but it requires some plumbing to achieve, and one more valve like the ones you have now, or...a diverter type valve, and a "T" fitting for one of the hoses. Sounds like a plumber's nightmare...
It may be a bigger pain than it's worth. Keeping coolant flowing thru those hoses is NOT a life-or-death kinda deal....lots of cars run around with NO heater hoses even connected, and the fittings on the intake/water pump are plugged. I know it sounds like I'm waffling here(I could be a politician, no?
), but my original point was keeping coolant running thu the hoses if the hoses are connected is better than blocking them completely...imho 
You can have a "bypass" system for the heater core that will block coolant from circulating thu it, but still allow it to circulate thru the hoses, but it requires some plumbing to achieve, and one more valve like the ones you have now, or...a diverter type valve, and a "T" fitting for one of the hoses. Sounds like a plumber's nightmare...

It may be a bigger pain than it's worth. Keeping coolant flowing thru those hoses is NOT a life-or-death kinda deal....lots of cars run around with NO heater hoses even connected, and the fittings on the intake/water pump are plugged. I know it sounds like I'm waffling here(I could be a politician, no?


Joel Adams
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Hey Joel,
You still got my vote---it's cool
Thanks to you & "440" for the input!

This may be one of those jobs I don't have to do, but do anyway.
Tinbender,
Let us know how you make out on this.
Kevin
Something that I did with the engine is to install a mechanical screw in 3/8" mpt guage into the manifold. This allows you to check the engine temp from under the hood, and this is directly in the engine before the thermostat. It gives the engine temperature not the radiator temperature. Here is the link...it's liquid filled to take out the engine vibrations: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D350120&N=700+4294925228+4294925227+400304+4294822101+4294908416+4294907780+115&autoview=sku
corvette440hp
Lucky for me the heater core in my car is setup very basic. No A/C a inlet and outlet hose.In the spring when the weather wams up I will change it at the same time I do my dash.
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I went with the reducer method out by the water pump about 6 yr.s ago, since mine goes into "Hybernation" about Nov. and doesn't come out until Easter or so.
JB
in Forum: C3 Cooling and Heating Systems
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