Where does one get these "wetters" ...

sounds like something good to use just as a preventative measure..

I've found "Water Wetter" at Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Murray's Discount Auto Parts and mail order at Summit and Jeg's. I think even Mid-America includes it in their catalog.

Looks like I have new hoses minus the spring in the lower hose. It's off to the parts store sometime today and maybe by the weekend or on the weekend I can find the time to drain, flush, clean, change the hose and all the fun stuff that keeps us busy. Thanks for the advice.

Well, changed the bottom hose to one with a spring in it, flushed the system and added new coolant 50/50 with water. The car still behaves as before. It runs around 190 degrees until I get on the accelerator then the temp jumps to around 220-230. If I keep running at higher speeds the engine will begin to get hotter. If I slow down and keep the engine running under 2500 rpm's the temp begins to cool until it reaches 190 degrees again. Any advice out there?

I just quickly scanned the thread so may have missed it, but have you checked to make sure ALL of the incoming air is getting through the radiator? I know I have to replace the missing filler material between the radiator and the radiator support member which should help some.

Norsky, I checked the shroud and surrounding area and everything seems to be in place and secure. But thanks for the tip. This is frustrating as I can cruise all day without a problem. Then I either go up a hill or get into the accelerator and only then does the temp rise. If I keep going I can get it to overheat. Otherwise, I slow down or go downhill and the temp returns to normal.

73_pearl_orange said: Red Line puts out a great product called "Water Wetter". It works by reducing the surface tension of the coolant to the radiator fins. I got a 30 degree drop, down to around 180. Best of all, its only $7-$8 for a bottle and you just add it to the radiator. My $0.02 for what it's worth.

Ive been running it in mine since i got her back on the road...

this stuff works...

I guess I will offer up a few suggestions. you say you have all your shround and radiators seals in place. If so then the air should go through the radiator, but there may be one more seal that may be not working correctly.

There is a seal that goes across teh top of the radiator support and seals against the hood. Not having this seal in place can make air pass up over the radiator, Make sure it is sealing against the hood. i would also take a pencil and push against the other seals to make sure they aren't folding over allowing air to pass through.

A couple other things I would check and I know it should silly is make sure you have the correct thermostat in, with a 180 to 190 deg range Since this is where you are wanting to run the engine. The other is the Radiator cap. I know you said you got a replacement, but did you get the correct PSI cap. If not it will cause the temperature to rise.

Another thing I have see happen is air in the system get trapped causing hot pockets of air that cause crazy things to happen at the temp sensor.

You do have the correct fan on the engine. There are pushers and their are puller style fans. It should be pulling air inward.

Not sure if yours would have this or not, but on my 72 if is suppose to have a lower air dam that directs air up into the radiator. By nature most of these end up missing, destroyed and never replaced due to curb stops and such. This may help as well.

Can anybody think of of anything else.

Now that you flushed the system is the Anti-freeze clean or is there still a brown film or foam in the radiator?
What temp thermostat and radiator pressure cap do you have? Is there any fluid on the fan clutch? How many blades are on your fan? Does the water pump make a noise or leaking?

Roy

The thermostat is 180 and cap is 16 lbs. Fluid got cleaner but can stand another flush. If I can get sometime later today I'll try another flush.