I just did the temp check on mine. When it sits and idles my gauge goes up to 210 once warm. The fan doesnt come on until the gauge gets to 205 - 210. It goes off around 195. Mine are dual spal from dewitts. My sending unit is suppose to turn the fans on at 190 - 195 and off at 180 - 185. After the fans cycled on and off a few times I took my temp sensor gun and found that when the gauge reads 210 the sending switches and thermostat housing is at 195. When the fans complete the cycle the switches and housing are down to 185. Now thats on mine so I know the gauge isnt 100% accurate. I realize you said before the change yours temps never ran that high so I would suggest you check it and see what you really have. Again mine is a dual set and your are using a single fan, But i also know others running a single fan and they are happy with their setup.
Best of luck
Rodney

This may be your issue. Unless that pump has a variable speed, it may not be capable of keeping the coolant flow volume up at road/cruize speed. Does the engine cool down once you slow down from hiway speeds, or does it stay hot, or continue to get hotter?

Electric pumps are prolly ok on cars with front ends/grills that allow air onto the radiator. Shark cars ain't all that great in that area...not a lot of airflow thru the rad., so they naturally tend to wanna run hotter than most other vehicles. Anything that hampers coolant or air flow will cause them to run hotter.

I would first want to verify that the temp on the gauge is correct by doing the same thing Rodney did...check it with an infrared temp gun, and compare actual temp to gauge temp, and go from there.

Thanks guys for the info, I will check it out this week when I get some free time after work. Going to get a temp gun and see what that shows. Thanks again, ACE

I went and bought a mini IR thermometer with laser pointer. The fan kicks on around 200 deg + - , I think it needs to come on sooner like 180 +-. I also added a bottle of water wetter should it not help lower temp or is that just bunk ? Would it be better to replace sensor with one that turns on sooner like 185 ish ? I have a 16" Jeggs universal S blade 1950 cfm fan do I need to run a dual fan set up or will this be ok when I get it to turn on sooner. I'm at my witts end if there is such a thing  Can I also add a toggle switch to turn on fan sooner or is that not a good idea ? Well I'm done rambling for now hope this wont make me any grayer       Any and all help is appreciated, thanks gang for UR help !

sensors to come on at different temps are available. i think a good place to check is dewitts. as for adding a switch to turn it on or off you can add a ground to your sensor that is controlled by a toggle switch. all your sensor does is create a ground. many people do that in case the switch were to manfunction. good luck rodney

|UPDATED|7/5/2012 5:05:52 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

What kind of shroud, and is it sealed against the radiator? If the fan isn't shrouded completely, you could have air passing around it, instead of being drawn thru the fan. The electric fan really shouldn't be an issue at cruizing speeds...there should be enough airflow over the rad to keep the engine cool at road speeds...unless there is something restricting the airflow(trash on front of condenser/radiator, air dam(spoiler) missing/damaged, or seals around the rad missing/damaged.

Turning the fan on sooner will not keep it from getting hot....it will just take it a little longer to get there.

Here is a pic of my set up.

http://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/1601_1700/1663/FD61B_P9290189.JPG


(large image changed to link)


|UPDATED|7/9/2012 6:23:48 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Wow....I see at least part of the problem... You have no lower shroud...all of the air that should be going thru the radiator is going right under/behind it. You really need to find the rest of the shroud, or find something to close up that huge open area below the radiator...you should NOT be able to see the ground from the top...
Do you have the lower part of the shroud?