Personally Ladyvette I wouldn't recomend doing that. If all your trying to acomplish is bleeding the air out of the system, you can do that by running the car with the cap off, wait until stat opens & feather the throttle a little. Then top off rad & you should be fine. The hole has no other advantage & your motor was not designed to run with bleeder hole in stat. Thats my cooling system professional opinion (for what its worth) Terry

[QUOTE=my7T1]Personally Ladyvette I wouldn't recomend doing that. If all your trying to acomplish is bleeding the air out of the system, you can do that by running the car with the cap off, wait until stat opens & feather the throttle a little. Then top off rad & you should be fine. The hole has no other advantage & your motor was not designed to run with bleeder hole in stat. Thats my cooling system professional opinion (for what its worth) Terry[/QUOTE]

I agree

Thanks Guys

Most thermostats I have installed had a small "V" notch cut in them to help bleed the system. If you hold the stat up to a light, looking from the bottom, you can see it, it's on the piece that opens up.

Most stats stay open when they fail.

 You should pressure check the radiator cap to make sure it's holding pressure.

Lot's a stuff to check! 

Denny

Well i replaced the t-stat and flushed the system.  Ran the engine for 30mins and the radiator temp was 150-160 tops.  The t-stat is working fine but the temp gauge is only reading 100-110. Think i might have gotten a bad sender?????

That's the first place I'd start. I went through a few when I did my car, ended up putting the old one back in and it worked fine. I had a hard time finding one that was correct for my wiring harness. (long story)

Dave, Lectric Limited has the correct senders and connectors. Adams' Apple38659.8306828704