Also don't forget to ask about Torque converter lockup kit.

Hey Joel, The house next door to me is up for sale.  Feel like moving to NJ?  Gee, you're a giant wealth of info!

Fagedaboutit, Kevin!!!
Thanx for the compliment, and the offer, but I thinks I just stays where I am!!! Everything's better in TEXAS!!!

OK Ken and Joel;

I was under the hood looking around in a last ditch attempt to keep $2000 for spending on other vette goodies for her when I noticed a cable on the drivers side of the Rochester QJet with a black hard vinyl casing coming off the lower center arm of the carb.  This cable moves with no resistance either forward or backward and when moved forward it goes all the way to the removal opening in the slot.  The cable crosses over behind the distributor and disappears down the passenger side of the tunnel.  I didn't have time to put her in the air, but will tomorrow. 

I assume this cable must go to the transmission however, I don't know what it would do.  Could this be causing the loss of 2nd and 3rd?

Once again, your expertise would be most appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Dennis

Dennis, what you found is the "detent", or "kickdown" cable. The only thing this cable does is tell the trans that you want it to downshift, or, it tells the trans that you don't want it to upshift, depending on how much gas you're giving it. If the cable has stuck in the full forward position, the trans will not shift.

If you pull forward on that cable, you should feel some tension as you get to the end of travel. The lower/internal linkage that that cable controls is spring loaded, and you should be able to feel that tension as you compress the spring, and release the cable. If the cable just pulls, and basicaly "bottoms", with no springy feel at the end of it's travel, then the kick-down valve is stuck(in the valve body), or the internal linkage/bellcrank is damaged, holding the valve in the kickdown position.

I should have a pic of this linkage. Let me check, and I'll be bach...

Otay...my close-up pic taking sux, but....here's a pic of the DETENT LINKAGE, to give you an idea of what to look for. If you pull the pan, and see this valve stuck all the way into the valvebody, but the linkage is not bound up/damaged, the spring behind the valve could be broken, or the valve itself is stuck.Adams' Apple38871.3711342593

Joel;

Thanks for getting back to me so quick.  I'll pull the pan tomorrow and see what I see. 

Dennis

Even though this cable and linkage may be stuck/broken etc.  the trans will still shift up to second and third.  Granted it will have to wind the engine up all the way, and then it will shift like you got hit in the rear, very hard shift.

I just wonder if you have wound up the engine enough to make it shift, or if there is another trans problem.

Can't help with trans problem but my 71 temp would go up at hwy speeds over 70. As long as I ran 65 or less it was fine. I removed the front liscense plate and now can run any speed w/o any overheating.

Ray

Joel/Ken/Ray;

Finally got the pan pulled and the cable and linkage are fine.  Thanks to Joel's pic I knew what I was looking for as it isn't in the Shop Manual anywhere that I could find.  The valve was stuck all the way in and after poking and prodding with a screwdriver, it freed itself and had tension.  There was one 1" square about 1/4" thick glob of something that reminded me of a square of bazooka bubble gum stuck in the pan that peeled out in one piece, along with a thin coating covering the bottom of the pan of a greyish substance that came out a LOT easier with Berrymans Chemtool.  the filter was clear as was the fluid.

After buttoning her up and 3 1/2 qts of fluid, I took her out and wrapped her just above 4k on the Tach three times, after no luck I was headed back to the house and figured it was internal as well and was going to ask you guys one last time what you thought when she shifted around 2500 R's.  I kept going and she shifted into 3rd around 2800.  Came to a stop sign, took off regularly and she was stuck again.  Wound her up around 25-2800 and she shifted to second and third.  Wound her up again at the next mile and she shifted.  All these shifts were smooth, not jerky or slamming.  After about 3 miles of this, she began to shift normally.

I intend to take her out again today and see if she still works.

As to the cooling issue.  She has no license plate but I noticed that in the rubber skirt of the air dam, there is a 2" square hole just to the passenger side of center that wasn't there when I bought her.  I'm going to try to tape it up and see what happens however, I have ordered and should be getting in this week a 4 core and the mounts to fit as well as a seal kit.  I'll also do the pan gasket and timing cover (both leaking) when I pull it down.

Yet another question...Do I have to remove the hood to remove the radiator? It looks like it can come out with the hood still on but I don't want to damage the hood.

Thanks for all the help and pic's working me thru this.  I really appreciate it!

Dennis

Sounds like the detent valve is sticking, but it is possible the one of the springs behind it has broken, and is hanging it up. As I stated before, it is very rare for a valve to hang in a 350 valve body, but it can happen.
If you look at the pic I posted, you will see one 7/16" head bolt holding the valve in the vb. Take it off, and pull the valve out. There should be at least one spring behind it, most have two. See that the spring(s) is in good shape, and not deformed in any way. If the spring is ok, then clean the valve bore in the vb with some brake cleaner, and chuck the valve up in a drill. With some light emory cloth, or sandpaper, buff the valve while spinning it with the drill. This will take any high spots off of the valve. Then reassemble the valve, and see if that fixes the problem.
You may need to pull the vb off completely, and clean it. Thing is...if there is enough poop in it hanging a valve, that poop came from somewhere, and it ain't gonna get much better. Try the fix above, and give it a shot.

You can remove the rad. without taking the hood off. It is easier with the hood out of the way, but it can be done, it just takes a little more time. Adams' Apple38883.7937384259