[QUOTE=Autom8r] Josh,

Everything about the transmission IS hydraulic..... except the lockup, which uses an electrical signal to a lockup clutch soleniod.

Hang around here long enough and you'll be a whiz kid!

Dave[/QUOTE]

Normally, this is absolutely correct, but.... we CAN make the lock-up function without ANY electrical connections, or wiring. All it takes is a specific valve-spring change, and a check-ball placed into the snout of the lu solenoid. Works great on hot-rods, or swaps. There are prolly 25 different wiring harnesses for the inside of a 700, with different pressure switches, and computer logic to apply the lu. A hydraulic set-up is the easiest way to do one. The set-up you have on yours(Dave), with the switch on the outside, is also common, but it does require a power/voltage source for the solenoid. Either way works just fine. At this point, we don't really know what he has on his...is it 'lectric, and just not hooked up, or is it really a hyd. set-up? Only the Shadow knows!

I would suggest pulling the pan, and seeing if there is a harness inside. If there is, then you can simply run a 12v feed to the case connector, and you should have lu.

Wiring mine was pretty simple;

            ____                  ____                    ____
+_____o    o_________o    o__________o    o___________o////o________-
           BSW1                  VSW2                 PSW3                      LU sol

BSW1 is an existing Normally Open switch on the steering column held closed by the brake pedal released.

VSW2 is a NO vacuum switch that closes over 8" HG

PSW3 is the NO internal pressure switch that closes when the R4 is in 4th.

Mine only locks up in 4th cog. It works great!

Ida never thunk it coulda been done all hydraulically!!!

Dave

Autom8r2007-11-06 08:42:41

Sweet diagram there, Dave!
The vac. switch is there to kick it out of lu when you romp on it a little, or you start up a hill, but don't add any pedal to it.

Yeah..... It's kinda like a pre-passing gear when the converter unlocks.

It was a kinda bich to get the diagram lines to line up but after enough post previews and edits it all came out OK....

Dave

Sounds like one of two things...either the converter has developed a "shudder", or you have an engine miss.
Any engine miss will be magnified once the torque converter locks up. Just think of it as the same thing as a standard trans...direct drive from the flywheel, with no cushioning effects from the converter.

There is a product that will cure a converter shudder, if it is just a matter of calibration, and NOT a failing converter clutch. It is called, of all things, Dr. Tranny's "Shudder Fix"!! Most trans shops have it in stock. But...you can also pour a bottle of GM positrac additive in the trans, and get the same results. It's pretty much the exact same stuff...just different colors!
This stuff is really just a friction modifier, and it changes the coefficient of friction, making it less susceptible to "skipping", or shuddering when the clutch is applied.
Try a bottle of the posi additive, or get some "Shudder Fix" from your local trans shop, and see if that solves the problem.Adams' Apple2007-12-29 19:12:08

Mine is smooth as silk... if anything on a 29 year-old car is THAT smooth....

Mine was like that when I shifted the belts on the old tires running Tail of the Dragon last year...

If yours is wired like mine you can unlock the converter by tapping the brake pedal and see if you still have the "shudder".

DaveAutom8r2008-01-06 09:53:15