With 83,000 miles on it, you might as well go ahead and do a rebuild while it's out for the seal job. Wouldn't be much fun to have to do it again in a month or two...
The shifter cable boot can't leak, so I have to assume that's just a typo. The shift lever shaft, that comes out of the driver's side of the trans can leak, tho. It will blow fluid back onto the cable, making the cable wet.
Now, there is a detent/passing gear cable on the pass. side, and it uses a "boot" to seal it to the trans. This can leak, too.
If you want, P/M me with an area code for your location, and I can help locate a shop for you.

Mine had several leaks: shifter, passing gear and speedo.

Nope...I would get them to install a higher mph/psi lock-up switch in the valve body, tho. Most of them come stock with a 33psi switch, which equates to about a 33 mph lock-up. This is a little too early, and it can "bog" the engine a bit. The switches are available in many psi ratings. I like to use at least a 45, but 55 is better. That way, the lu doesn't come on until you reach 55 mph.

Thanks!  I will call them in the morning they tore it down today so I don't think they are there yet.  So it hasn't worked since i had the car so I won't even know what to expect.  The trans was pretty worn according to the trans guy he felt they disconnected it because the converter was going.

That's probably a good assessment. Most folks did disconnect them...too "busy"...going in & out of LU all the time. That's why I suggested a higher psi switch. That keeps it(Lock-up) off until you're cruizing at highway speeds.

You can "expect" to feel what amounts to another "shift" after 3rd gear. It won't be a solid a feel as a shift, but you should still be able to feel it. It will also help with the fuel mileage, but only on longer trips. Maybe 1-2mpg, depending on how long yer legs are!

Run, Forest, RUN!!!!
If those guys don't know how to trouble-shoot a 350C(lock-up) trans, you might be in trouble!
The lock-up is controlled by the vehicle speed/governor pressure more than anything else. All the trans needs is 12v on the connector to work, normally in the "B" terminal of the connector, but it should be a Purple wire. It should be "hot" any time the key is on, and the brake pedal is NOT pressed.
Have them check for 12v on that wire. If there is 12v there, and you have no LU, then the pressure switch is bad, the LU valve(in valve body) is stuck, or the LU solenoid is bad.
It's a waste of time to look for a ADLC, as it will give no info other than codes...no data. If the "Check Eng" lite is not on, there will be no codes, anyway.

Your car does have the ADLC connector, and it should be under the dash, driver side, to the left of the headlight over-ride switch.(actually, it's under the ashtray...)Like I say, tho, it won't be much help.
They need to look at a wiring diagram to solve this one. It's a fairly simple set-up.Adams' Apple2007-06-06 05:21:54