Now that I have it open I would like to clean it out somehow - There are peices of both snap rings in there somewhere and I woulld like to get them out if I can.

You can do a make your own gasket and also many people will use silicone as well. Either one should work fine. 

I would wait and get the right gasket. I put mine on with a little bit of gasket adhesive on the carrier and bolted the cover on. Dry as a bone. In terms of cleaning out the carrier, unless you plan to replace the bearings, I would not use any solvents or water. Residues from solvents will get into your new gear oil...

You can use a spray brake cleaner to clean out the diff. without a problem.
 To get the snap rings on, you'll have to put them up in place first, then slide the yoke in. Of course, you're gonna need some snap ring pliers with 90 deg ends, if you don't already have some.
You can get gasket material at most parts houses, and cut your own, if you want. I use an anaerobic(sp?) sealant the hardens in the absence of oxygen, but it doesn't work as well on aluminuminum, if your diff is not cast iron. There was no gasket on them from the factory to start with... If your's is aluminuminum, you can use silicon.

Aluminuminum ????  Is that a Texas Word Joel??

It is iffin you have a speech impediment....




Adams' Apple2010-08-07 15:52:40

Hey Ya’ll – I installed the yokes and snap rings today…was a breeze !  I was amazed at the ease.  The tough part was getting those darned seals out….holy crap, there must be a trick to it.  I used my gear puller for one side – the other I was able to use a screwdriver and pair of pliers.

 

Now the real problem turned out to be the 42 year old universals that were beyond rusted into the flange’s.  I pressed them out and they bent the flanges since they were rusted into one piece – man the pissed me off.  

 

I am going to buy new half shafts from Ecklers for $180 each – plug and play.  I can pick up refurbished for $120 with a $75 core – might go that route…just not sure yet.

Sorry to hear about the flanges....
One way to keep that from happening requires an extra set of spindle flanges(for the t-arms). Bolt the halfshaft to the extra spindle flange, and it adds a great deal of stiffness to the set-up, which makes it easier to remove the u-joints without tweeking the flange.
Yeah...I know...would've been nice to know BEFORE... Sorry....

Glad ya did get the yokes in, tho!

Hey not to crowd your diff questions but I have one for you..when you put the output yokes on the diff are they "clocked" at the same place..ie. Where the u bolt flange is at the same place on both sides? I had mine on the lift Friday and I noticed that they are not at the same clock position . I have a vibration at high speed. I know its drive train but not sure if they are supposed to be.
Thanks
Rich