Topic: clunking rear end?
in Forum: C3 Driveline Components
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Hey all -
After a short (but fun) trip to the store last night I heard a loud clunking sound from the driver's side rear end on my 75. I haven't put it up to take a look yet, but was wondering where to start.
It sounded like it crunched once every full turn of the wheel. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Glenn
After a short (but fun) trip to the store last night I heard a loud clunking sound from the driver's side rear end on my 75. I haven't put it up to take a look yet, but was wondering where to start.
It sounded like it crunched once every full turn of the wheel. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Glenn
Glenn's Bright Blue 75 T-Top
L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

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COLUMBUS, MS - USA
Joined: 1/11/2004
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Vette(s): 1972 Coupe; 350 4-speed with GM sidepipes;
Classic White/Saddle

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John
Okay, I jacked it up and the u-joints seem good. I do have play in the wheel up and down. With the wheel off the ground I can move it an inch or so in each direction up and down. No real play side to side.
What do you think it is...bearings, shaft, trailing arm?
Thanks,
Glenn
What do you think it is...bearings, shaft, trailing arm?



Thanks,
Glenn
Glenn's Bright Blue 75 T-Top
L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

Former Member
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mongaup valley, NY - USA
Joined: 8/25/2003
Posts: 79
Vette(s): 1958 red-white 4 speed 283
1976 My project car L48 T350
1984 Daily driver
1986 convertable daily driver
1991 zr1 never been driven still in plastic
it probably is the reaar trailing arm bushings. I did mine in my 76. Thety were difficult to do and i did them on a lift 6 feet in the air. You can do them you just need to be creative. You may even want to buy a new rear trailing arm assembly. They are around $400 and worth every penny.
RJG

Hot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
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Vette(s): 69 Conv #'s match 427, TKO-600/.64, 3.36HD-Posi, HT, T/T, PS, PB, PW, SP, Leather, Comp XE264HR & Roller Rockers & Lifters, Air-Gap RPM intake, Holley St Av 770 VS, MSD 6AL+Dist+Blaster SS, K&N, Jet-Hot Hooker Side-Pipes, Steeroids, Al Rad, Spal Fans
I cannot attest to the diagnoses but i agree a rebuilt trailing arm is well worth the money... just ot keep from having to screw with the rear wheel bearings..
I don't think it's the bearings or the spindle, you would see play in all directions if those were worn. "Up and down" (I am interpeting this as being able to tip the top edge and bottom edge of the wheel in and out) could be excessive yoke end play at the differential or strut rod bushings. It would be helpful to have a little more information. You will need to get under there after providing for adequate support to work safely. Try to determine where the play is coming from.
Thanks Big Fish,
Your right the play is the top and bottom being able to move out and in. Example: with the car jacked up the wheel is noticably drooping with the top sagging out and down.
I looked at it closely without taking anything apart and can say that it is not the brakes, and doesn't look like the half u-joint is doing anything weard.
Your right the play is the top and bottom being able to move out and in. Example: with the car jacked up the wheel is noticably drooping with the top sagging out and down.
I looked at it closely without taking anything apart and can say that it is not the brakes, and doesn't look like the half u-joint is doing anything weard.

Glenn's Bright Blue 75 T-Top
L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

Former Member
Send PM
COLUMBUS, MS - USA
Joined: 1/11/2004
Posts: 331
Vette(s): 1972 Coupe; 350 4-speed with GM sidepipes;
Classic White/Saddle
When you rock the top of the wheel in and out, what is the control arm doing?
If the control arm is "twisting", replace the forward pivot bushings (polyurethane @ Eckler's $70 with flaring tool). Replace the pivot bolts and shims at the same time ($40). NOTE THE SHIM PLACEMENT BEFORE REMOVING THE TRAILING ARM.
If the control arm is not "twisting" when the wheel moves in and out, then you have a loose wheel bearing. Tighten it (see my previous post). If that doesn't solve the problem, then you will have to replace the bearing.
John

If the control arm is "twisting", replace the forward pivot bushings (polyurethane @ Eckler's $70 with flaring tool). Replace the pivot bolts and shims at the same time ($40). NOTE THE SHIM PLACEMENT BEFORE REMOVING THE TRAILING ARM.
If the control arm is not "twisting" when the wheel moves in and out, then you have a loose wheel bearing. Tighten it (see my previous post). If that doesn't solve the problem, then you will have to replace the bearing.


John
in Forum: C3 Driveline Components
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