Topic: clutch pedal free play issue
in Forum: C3 Driveline Components
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Well, I have to admit I tried the second spring route. Went to my favorite local Ace Hardware (minutes from my house) and browsed their plethora of springs. Picked one that was shorter and weaker than the main return spring and installed it inside the main one, both springs are installed in the same two holes. Voila, the little bit of extra spring rate is enough to bring the pedal back full every time. Yep, it's a little bit Bubba, but it works and it doesn't increase pedal effort too much. I really think the only problem is that new boot on the clutch fork is stiff - maybe when it gets broken in more the second spring won't be needed.
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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Lifetime Memberdaveo76 said: Well, I have to admit I tried the second spring route. Went to my favorite local Ace Hardware (minutes from my house) and browsed their plethora of springs. Picked one that was shorter and weaker than the main return spring and installed it inside the main one, both springs are installed in the same two holes. Voila, the little bit of extra spring rate is enough to bring the pedal back full every time. Yep, it's a little bit Bubba, but it works and it doesn't increase pedal effort too much. I really think the only problem is that new boot on the clutch fork is stiff - maybe when it gets broken in more the second spring won't be needed.
Dave,
If it makes you feel any better, I believe that you can (sometimes) engineer a better process. Now................the next hurdle?
corvette440hp
If it works, that's one less problem! NOW you're an engineer!
Barry
in Forum: C3 Driveline Components
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