Here are some pix (if I can make them work) of the damage to the '80 on the trip to Eureka.  This is the driveline damage, not the goon from the AAA wrecker service. 

Norsky2006-10-15 19:32:07

The codes are stamped on the driver and passenger side of the pumpkin on the flat spots where the pinion shaft goes in.

I've had a few driveshafts rebuilt for sanity purposes (racing applications). This can be done. 2 major concerns  would be any damage to the shaft (cracking or splitting from the stress) or bending/twisting of the shaft itself. It doesn't take as much to do this as you'd think. A good driveline shop can build you an entirely new shaft from their stock if needed. LukesVette2006-10-15 06:20:07

Dennis, could you give us a good description of where these numbers are located?
The number in the second pic looks like it is on the frame, or some smooth steel surface. The bottom pic looks like it may be of the lower, driver's side of the diff.
Ya gotta remember....some of us old farts' eyes ain't too good!

A "CAV" is usually a casting mold number, used to determine which mold was used to cast a part. If there is a defect, or problem with the part later, they can determine which mold the defect came from, and correct that one mold.

There are a large number of 80-'81 driveline components that don't quit "jive" with the parts books. I don't think there was ever even ONE '80-'81 Vette built that had all the "correct" u-joint sizes listed for that year model. Mass confusion reigned suppreme at GM...alum. diffs were new.

Otay...I just re-read the thread, and noticed the post UNDER the orig. post...I toll ya the eyes were bad!!
The "CAV" is explained above. The 11-17-80 is a bit tricky. Do you know the birthday of your car Dennis? For sure, '80 production had ceased in August '80. It is possible the diff was replaced under warranty shortly after delivery, thus the Nov. '80 build date. This also makes the theory of not having the "correct" u-joints even more believable. I think GM had a real hard time getting the early alum. diffs to stand up, and they had to replace quite a few under warranty.Adams' Apple2006-10-15 09:24:48

She is a Nov 1979 car.  Will this be a 3.07 rear end as well?  Did all 81's have the 3.07? 

Any ideas on what a re-work of the driveshaft and pinion shaft should cost?  We have 4 or 5 shops listed here.  A buddy of mine at work is making a monster truck out of a Suzuki Samurai and has had some shaft and axle work done.  I'll check w/him for who he used.

Thanks LukesVette and Joel.  I appreciate the help!

All '80 cars were 3.07
'81 automatics were 2.87
'81 4spds were 2.72
A Nov. '79 would be considered an early build, VIN # 8343 or lower.
I know the transmissions were dated according to the year model of the car, not the year the part was built/assembled. I don't believe the diffs were dated the same way. Your diff has been replaced, somewhere down the line...
Cost for d-shaft work varies. I wouldn't mess with trying to fix the yoke for the diff...just replace it if it is damaged. Ya don't wanna go thru this again, eh?
Got a pic of the yoke?

The Driveshaft guy here says he has to make a new tube as it twisted the old shaft.  Additionally, I'll need a Pinion Shaft.  He is charging $195 for the driveshaft and $40 for the Pinion Shaft.  He says he will only guarantee it if he puts in the u-joints.

He also says the pinion shaft is from a Dana 44 rearend.

Does this stuff sound right?

The 'luminuminum diffs were Danas, I think...
200 smackers for a short little driveshaft sounds kinda high to me, and 40 dubloons for the yoke sounds cheap! I guess it all evens out in da wash, eh?!

Final bill...$230 American.  He had to go about 30 miles to find a yoke that would work.  He put Neapco u-joints in (new), built a new tube and balanced it as well as cut and welded the ends on and pressed in the u-joints.

AAAANNNNDDDDD, it was done in just under 5 hours.....

Drivetrain Specialists in OKC at S.E. 23rd and Robinson if anyone needs this.  I will be putting him in our database (once I test drive her).

Autually that is cheap depending what he made the actual shaft out of. I had one made from a shop that did our Cup and Busch cars for the Jeep front end and you don't even want to know what it costed. I still say to this day , it should have been painted green(the color of money). Its about 60 some inches long and weighs almost nothing. The rear shaft is less than 18" long and it weighs more. I think its some kind of extruded hydraulic tubing or something.....Anyway enuff babbling .... Great deal on getting you back on the road.