I am/was, but I've been getting a little distracted lately. I'll be sure to check on the adjustment this evening, and post whatever I find out.

The "adjustment" is basically to push the "plunger" all the way forward to re-set the switch. The "plunger" would be the pin on the switch that the accelerator pedal pushes. Pushing the pin forward would move the entire "guts" of the switch forward. Then, when you mash the pedal all the way down, the switch will automatically set itself to the correct location.

I'm gonna have to go out and uncover my '74 so I can try this myself...then I may be able to remove the hose that I put on it!
On my '74, the switch only works the cowl induction door in the hood, since I have a 4 speed trans, but it is the same switch that works the automatic(400) trans kickdown. Adams' Apple2008-11-17 22:07:55

The only difference I've ever seen in these switches was the color of them...white, black, even blue and pink! Some may also bolt up on the other side of the bracket(for different cars, such as Camaros, etc). I don't recal any of them having slots for adjustment on the brackets.

Take a look at This modified pic of yours.

Just push the pin toward the pedal...it might take some persuasion, but it will move/ratchet the inner workings of the switch forward, so the pin will be closer to the pedal to start with, which should give you full contact at about 3/4 throttle.
hth

So thats what they call the automatic adjustment huh. Thanks Joel, I'll try mine tonight and take it for a drive. By the way mine is also a tan color like the one in the Pic.

thanks joel I see if that helps

Joel was correct again. I moved the peg on the detent switch all the way forward and it clicked. It now works correctly. I did however leave the piece of hose on it.

Bio11 would you be able to take a picture of your switch, mine still doesnot work i will be double checking the circuit.

Bob, I'll try to get up under the dash of mine tomorrow, and get a pic. I don't think you could install one wrong.
There should be 12v on one of the terminals any time the key is on. When the switch is activated, but the trans connector unplugged, it should have 12v on both sides. IF the wiring to the trans is connected, when you activate the switch, the voltage should go to "0".
You may have a bad kickdown solenoid in the trans, if it still doesn't have a kickdown/passing gear, and the switch is adjusted properly. Adams' Apple2008-12-08 20:42:03

Bob I'll see if I have a pic from when I had all the dash apart. I know I have some but don't know if they show the switch.