Topic: Diff Oil Removal
in Forum: C3 Driveline Components
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OK....I see the book (from GM) says that you should never have to renew the posi lube in the diff, just to add to it. The car I reciently acquired has sat for more than 10 years, and I would like to replace the gear lube like the rest of the fluids.
My question is: How do I get the old fluid out?

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Turkey baster?
Remove the rear cover?
Drill and tap a hole for a plug in the cover?
Messy any way you try.


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The simple way is to warm it up, either by driving some or applying some heat to the differential, and using a siphon hose to get as much fluid out as possible.
The more difficult way is to remove the housing cover, which is a bunch of work from what I've read.
I have also seen a post somewhere about very carefully drilling a hole in the bottom of the differential and tapping it to accept a drain plug. I would imagine this would be much easier to do with the differential removed, or at least open.
When refilling it put the GM posi-lube in first and then fill the rest of the way with gear oil.
This is exactly the issue I've been wrestling with for a while. It's now snowballed into rebuilding the rear diff with a new gear ratio and replacing all the seals and mounts.
Since I've been considering my options for about a year I'll throw a few things out there to consider:
- As I recall, its necessary to remove the rear spring and endlinks to gain access to the differential cover (you would probably be wise to consider replacing the rear spring and hardware, you wouldn't want to break anything and send the tires up into the fiberglass)
- Shocks are probably shot too!
- Getting the spring bolts and differential bolts out could be tough.
- But, If anything is gooped up or disintegrating, you'll never know just by siphoning out the old fluid.
- Siphoning will never clean anything that might have gummed up, nor will it remove any water that may have gotten inside.
- Eventually, you may end up replacing seals or bearings anyway.
- Check the rubber bushings where the beam that supports the differential is mounted, they are probably shot. If you're into the project far enough (or paid for the labor to get this far) to open the rear diff cover you might as well change the mounts.
- Come to think of it, the bushings in your suspension strut rods may be gone as well. Might as well do those too!
Bottom line, this is definitely a corvette tip-of-the-iceberg issue. The rear end can easily turn into a complete rebuild issue. The labor involved to get far enough to open the diff up to take a look is enough that you may be at that point where it's foolish not to do the entire job. Of course that's not to say that you might not be able to get by for the time that you own the car just by changing the fluid. But, consider that you'll never have the peace of mind in knowing that the rear end is in good shape and that you'll probably end up replacing 75% of the bushings and rear spring and shocks anyway. Corvette rear ends are complicated compared to regular passenger/muscle cars and there are more parts involved that need to be in good condition for the car to keep driving right. Granted not everyone has the spare cash lying around to rebuild the entire rear end, but it's worth thinking about where you want to go with the car in the long run.
Just my 2 cents though. Like I said, I've had a lot of time to think about this.
Thanks Hipo, et al. I have considered just redoing the entire rear end at some point. My wifes car is next on the rack, so this one will have to wait. I think I wuill go with the heat-up/siphon method for now. We use a lab at work, I will send them an oil sample and see what we can see.
Thanks all for the advice!

Autozone - $29.95 - Vaccuum pump. It will come with a recovery cup and lots of other acc. - get a little longer hose than they supply. Attach it to the recovery cup, attach the cup to the pump and suck away through the fill hole. You will need something to dump into several times(the cup is small). As it starts to stop flowing push it further in, move it around, pull it back some, until you are not getting anything out. That will get most of it. It is easier if you remove the spare tire and lower half of the spare tire carrier. As Jim says, warm it some. We recently did 3 C3s in my garage this way.
71Shark 2008-01-29 08:22:25
This pump is also useful for brake bleeding and to check manifold and carb vaccuum.
Alrighty. I just had to chime in.
The local Corvette shop says that they change the diff. oil twice in order to get more dirt and gunk out. Does this make sense?
I'm looking ahead to springtime and would like to change the fluid in mine then.
I planned on using the turkey baster method with some hose on the end. That Vacuum pump that 71Shark mentioned sounds like a good bet.
[QUOTE=71Shark]Autozone - $29.95 - Vaccuum pump. It will come with a recovery cup and lots of other acc. - get a little longer hose than they supply. Attach it to the recovery cup, attach the cup to the pump and suck away through the fill hole. You will need something to dump into several times(the cup is small). As it starts to stop flowing push it further in, move it around, pull it back some, until you are not getting anything out. That will get most of it. It is easier if you remove the spare tire and lower half of the spare tire carrier. As Jim says, warm it some. We recently did 3 C3s in my garage this way.
This pump is also useful for brake bleeding and to check manifold and carb vaccuum.
[/QUOTE]
LOLOL......dummy me...I own one of those.......and never thought of it!!!!!!!!!
Thanks!!



Greensburg, IN - USA
Joined: 9/24/2003
Posts: 5189
Vette(s): Previous: 1984 Coupe, 1988 Maroon Coupe, 1989 Coupe, 2001 Roadster Present: 1967 Stingray Roadster, 1976 Stingray Coupe, 1989 Roadster..
Okay don't throw stones at me when I type this.... (ya can't hit me anyway). I Changed mine when I 1st got the car because it had sit around too. I have a battery operated pump siphone pump. I pumped some of the rear end grease out then added kerosine back. Took it for a short spin siphoned out the rest. Added back what I had 1st siphoned out plus kerosine again and took it for another short spin and siphoned the grease out again.
Then I added the rear end grease and the GM antislip additive. This way I got all or at least most of the crap out of there.
It's not as good as taking it apart but then again I wasn't ready to at that time and 7yrs later I am still not. I know I will some day either on my timetable or by necessity.
For now this method seems to have worked well.
You could possibly use something different like Risoline or Mystery Marvel oil versus Kerosine if chosen and get the same results.Tuxblacray 2008-01-29 10:59:55
Then I added the rear end grease and the GM antislip additive. This way I got all or at least most of the crap out of there.
It's not as good as taking it apart but then again I wasn't ready to at that time and 7yrs later I am still not. I know I will some day either on my timetable or by necessity.
For now this method seems to have worked well.
You could possibly use something different like Risoline or Mystery Marvel oil versus Kerosine if chosen and get the same results.
Thanks all....I didn't go the kerosine route, but did use the handy-dandy vacuum pump, and got the new stuff in. Thanks again!

in Forum: C3 Driveline Components
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