I'm going to remove my differential and have it re-built but removing it has been an issue, I have the crossmember removed and all that needs to be done is the 4 bolts that hold the drive shaft u-joint to the differential and there seems to be no room to get a wrench in there, there must be a better way?
Please advise

I had to take my drive shaft off before, it is very tight spot and hard to get at but I managed to undo the bolts holding the straps on the u-joint after a sore hand and lots of cussing. It helps to turn the drive shaft to the best position to get at one side, then put it in park, or in gear with a manual. that way the shaft doesn't spin with the wrench. then once that side is done rotate it again and repeat. (rotate by hand not by engine power btw)

Well that's kinda what I'm thinking, I was going to remove the driveshaft at the tranny then pull the differential and drive shaft out the back end of the car.

you can do that as well, since the diff is coming out in your case that might be easier, my case the diff was staying put and the trans was being replaced with a 700r4 and the driveshaft had to come out for shortening. The trans u-joint is much easier to access.

A few tips:
Have the rebuilder put a new cover ( heavy duty, probably $90 ) on it when rebuilding, mine broke after re-installing it with everything hooked up. The spring mount bolts are a bit scary, and the pad was cracked but not visible to your eye. This would have saved me hours of frustration and grief. Had to tear all the shafts, mounts, drain the oil, cross member out again, etc. What a night mare.
Yes the driveshaft at the rear end is a bitch to get at, but it can be done....if you can get someone to help, putting it back in with the shaft attached may be easier.
I bought the video tape from Van Steel ( $20 ??), VERY helpful for tearing out any part of the suspension and re-installing.
This is not a cheap project nor easy.....take your time....I can say with pride I did this several months ago and it seems to be running great now.....

xL82-197738407.7081597222

Yes and no. The front bracket was so badly rusted in the bolt holes I could not get it off. I shipped it with it attached to the rebuilder. He got it off and painted it for me too!! One of the bolts came out, but the other one busted off in the housing. This was the beginning of a long painful process getting it back in and not leaking and not cracked and so on.

Check the freight costs WOW, you will see about 102 lbs for the Diff. Costs about $80 UPS ground from MD to FL. Maybe freight by truck is cheaper, but definitely slower than 3 days with UPS.

Once out how much did the rebuild cost and what was included with the rebuild?

Also, who did you use and would you recommend them?

Thanks,



Bill

I finally removed the differential, I removed the u-joint at the transmisson and pulled it out the back as I removed the drive shaft from the differential I noticed the diameter on the driveshaft is smaller than the half shaft, is this normal?
I'm am also intrested in the price to re-build the differential, next week I'm going to take mine to a local transmission shop. I will post the price when I receive it.

Signed: busting my knuckles and enjoying it.

BLennox said: Once out how much did the rebuild cost and what was included with the rebuild? Also, who did you use and would you recommend them? Thanks, Bill

Dewey Hendricks owner of Just Vettes in Orlando rebuilt mine. I had to replace the bearings and the posi clutches. He totally cleaned the housing, painted it and reset everything back to specs. He charged $420 for Parts & Fluid and $200 for Labor. He did a great job but as previously mentioned it is heavy and FL is a long way from you. But Dewey is the best in Central Florida.