I'm going to remove my differential and have it re-built but removing it has been an issue, I have the crossmember removed and all that needs to be done is the 4 bolts that hold the drive shaft u-joint to the differential and there seems to be no room to get a wrench in there, there must be a better way?
Please advise

I had to take my drive shaft off before, it is very tight spot and hard to get at but I managed to undo the bolts holding the straps on the u-joint after a sore hand and lots of cussing. It helps to turn the drive shaft to the best position to get at one side, then put it in park, or in gear with a manual. that way the shaft doesn't spin with the wrench. then once that side is done rotate it again and repeat. (rotate by hand not by engine power btw)

Well that's kinda what I'm thinking, I was going to remove the driveshaft at the tranny then pull the differential and drive shaft out the back end of the car.

you can do that as well, since the diff is coming out in your case that might be easier, my case the diff was staying put and the trans was being replaced with a 700r4 and the driveshaft had to come out for shortening. The trans u-joint is much easier to access.

A few tips:
Have the rebuilder put a new cover ( heavy duty, probably $90 ) on it when rebuilding, mine broke after re-installing it with everything hooked up. The spring mount bolts are a bit scary, and the pad was cracked but not visible to your eye. This would have saved me hours of frustration and grief. Had to tear all the shafts, mounts, drain the oil, cross member out again, etc. What a night mare.
Yes the driveshaft at the rear end is a bitch to get at, but it can be done....if you can get someone to help, putting it back in with the shaft attached may be easier.
I bought the video tape from Van Steel ( $20 ??), VERY helpful for tearing out any part of the suspension and re-installing.
This is not a cheap project nor easy.....take your time....I can say with pride I did this several months ago and it seems to be running great now.....

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Bruce
72 Coupe L48 4sp
Custom Blue/Silver/Pearl

(Click for a larger pic)

xL82-197738407.7081597222

Yes and no. The front bracket was so badly rusted in the bolt holes I could not get it off. I shipped it with it attached to the rebuilder. He got it off and painted it for me too!! One of the bolts came out, but the other one busted off in the housing. This was the beginning of a long painful process getting it back in and not leaking and not cracked and so on.

Check the freight costs WOW, you will see about 102 lbs for the Diff. Costs about $80 UPS ground from MD to FL. Maybe freight by truck is cheaper, but definitely slower than 3 days with UPS.

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Bruce
72 Coupe L48 4sp
Custom Blue/Silver/Pearl

(Click for a larger pic)

Once out how much did the rebuild cost and what was included with the rebuild?

Also, who did you use and would you recommend them?

Thanks,



Bill

I finally removed the differential, I removed the u-joint at the transmisson and pulled it out the back as I removed the drive shaft from the differential I noticed the diameter on the driveshaft is smaller than the half shaft, is this normal?
I'm am also intrested in the price to re-build the differential, next week I'm going to take mine to a local transmission shop. I will post the price when I receive it.

Signed: busting my knuckles and enjoying it.

BLennox said: Once out how much did the rebuild cost and what was included with the rebuild? Also, who did you use and would you recommend them? Thanks, Bill

Dewey Hendricks owner of Just Vettes in Orlando rebuilt mine. I had to replace the bearings and the posi clutches. He totally cleaned the housing, painted it and reset everything back to specs. He charged $420 for Parts & Fluid and $200 for Labor. He did a great job but as previously mentioned it is heavy and FL is a long way from you. But Dewey is the best in Central Florida.

I just brought my differential to the local tranny shop and he is telling me $1,500.00 to rebuild (ouch) is this normal? or is he gouging me? Since I had the differential out I wanted to go thru it and make sure nothing wrong but at that price??

$1500 is way too much!! I had mine rebuilt with a new clutch pack and side yokes for about $600. If you look in Mid america, etc you can probably get a rebuilt one much cheaper, but that is way too much. Get a second opinion. Kathy

No No....1500 is a joke!! Do not let just anybody touch your diff.

There are a lot of people that specialize in re-doing the differential. I would imagine there is someone close to your location. Check all the magazines and use our list for references. A lot of us have been down this road and can save you some grief.

I believe that in the neighborhood of $600 for a good rebuild is ok. Remember the 102 pounds for freight will set you back. The better rebuilders will have a special box they will send you to ship it in - ASK them for it. Also remember you only want to do this once LOL.

Of course you will need a new bolt kit, bushings, universals, etc, etc, blah blah to do it right. Its only money, make it a safe ride.



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Bruce
72 Coupe L48 4sp
Custom Blue/Silver/Pearl

(Click for a larger pic)

PS....most of the part suppliers will just forward your diff to the same rebuilder dudes.....go direct yourself and make a better price. I used Van Steel and they could not be more helpful, even though it was a disaster for reasons I could not have control over.. My best buddy used Bairs, but his is not running yet. Best of luck.

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Bruce
72 Coupe L48 4sp
Custom Blue/Silver/Pearl

(Click for a larger pic)

Hello,
I would like to change the rear axle ratio of my 82. My car was built for fuel economy, not performance. What's a good ratio to improve low end pickup?
Thanks,
Tom

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Toms82 said: Hello, I would like to change the rear axle ratio of my 82. My car was built for fuel economy, not performance. What's a good ratio to improve low end pickup? Thanks, Tom

anything better than the 3.08 you probably have now would help.. but there is a trade off..

you lose mileage and top end..

i think for a 700r4 the options I picked was 3.55, I think ken picked 3.36..

i did a gearing and rpm comparison for someone else not long ago..

I agree with ben on that one, The 700r4 and 3.55 combo is hard to beat with its good top end and a good launch at the same time and it wont make your engine suck down a ton of gas or work it too hard on the highway. I have a 700r4 and 3.55 in my vette and I love the combo!

|UPDATED|1/12/2005 8:16:27 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

blu72 said: ... I used Van Steel and they could not be more helpful ...

I used Van Steel to rebuild my differential (and trailing arms) and couldn't be happier.


And $1500, I'm not even sure I would pay that much for a brand new in the original box C3 differential.

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1973 Coupe    


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