Woudl one of you fine gentlemne happen to have the torque specs for the 4 fine thread nuts that retain the hub assembly to the T-arm? These are the nuts under the e-brake shoes. Also need the torque for single large nut on the inside bearing adapter plus the 4 nuts that retain the half shaft to the bearing retainer. Both of my manuals leave this area out.

Also, I'm looking at pulling the lower shock mount that doubles as the bolt that retains what I'd call a strut. It runs through what I think is the bottom of the bearing adapter. Anyway, it appears to be a press fit similar to a tie rod end....should I pull from the rearward end or the strut end or the forward side of the strut? I'm asking so that I don't inadvertently load up the unpressed end...could open the thing up if its really really tight. Is there a slot in there so it aligns proper on re-assembly?

Thanks,
Dave

 Don't have the torque specs here, but I can look when I get home, unless someone else has them. I do know the flange for the halfshaft is 105 ft/lbs....or really close to that.
The lower shock mount also is the outer strut rod anchor, as you think. The shock mount IS splined on one end, and flat-keyed on the threaded end. They can be a pita to get off without ruining them.

There is a tool(or course!) to thread over the end that you can hammer on. Spray it down with WD40/Zep(whatever you use) for a while before hand...it'll help.

Awesome! I found the torque for the 4 T-arm stud/nuts which is 45 foot lbs and the shock anchor is 65 foot lbs. So now I just need to confirm the large nut on the backside of the spindle. I'm going to see if I can get a tie rod puller on that shock stud.

AIM shows the four nuts for the spindle support to t-arm to be 30ft/lbs, the 4 half-shaft flange bolts at 60-90 ft/lbs, and the large nut for the flange/yoke at 100 ft/lbs.

Check out THIS ARTICLE ...it's pretty decent at showing what is involved, and has some really good pics....

Ha! That's funny! (thanks BTW) I found that article last night. They have the 4 nuts at 45 lbs. I'll weld up a "beater" tool for the shock mount tomorrow. The tie rod puller doesn't fit. 

wish you luck with the strut/shock absorber mount.... by the time I got my first one off(way back in 1992-3ish) I think I could have laid about 7 miles of railroad track(driving spikes).... I could not get it to budge and ended up taking the camber bolt off the rear chunk to get the bearing housing off....  just couldn't get enough of a swing with a baby sledge under the car while on my back...  :) 

 What normally makes these things so hard to remove is the inner strut rod bushing sleeve rusting/corroding to the shock mount. The splines on the one end don't really cause a problem, since they are not very deep/long. It's best to spray that puppy down really well with WD40, or whatever you use before attempting removal. Be sure to spray as best you can up inside the strut rod end.
I've never really had any problems getting the mount out, but....we don't really have that much of a rust issue in these parts. Just a little pre-preparation will go a long way to lessen the stress level on this job.

I've been soaking with Kano Aero Kroil. If you have not used it get some. Its' the most effective rust disolver I've found. It turns the rust into a paste and pretty fast I'd add. I was able to remove all 10 machine screws from a rusty 82 year old model A ford fire wall without stripping a single one. Flat blade screws...crazy good. But, it has to make it to the rust to work. Hope that bushings has some clearance for the liquid. I think the other issue is backing up the bearing support so that your blows are effective. I'll see if I can get someone to place a large sledge head behind it somewhere to back it up. If that doesn't do it...well I dunno. Rethink the process. Thanks for the help boys!

Here's my tool. Still hot from the welder. The gold nut will thread onto the shock adapter, its welded to a .25" thick steel tab. The rear large bore nut will take that .75" diam grade 8 bolt to be used as an extension to pound on. Or I can run that steel solid rod inside the nut for a longer extension and if both of those fail I can slip that large pipe around the big nut and bang on it. The nut will help hold whatever I'm pounding on. Hopefully one of them will work. I'll let you know.
Dave