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Topic: Rear End Griding...again :(

in Forum: C3 Driveline Components


Rear End Griding...again :(

Posted: 3/28/08 6:14pm Message 11 of 15
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Tacoma, WA - USA
Joined: 10/30/2007
Posts: 85
Vette(s): 1979 L48 Resto-Mod. ZZ383 w/ TKO-500 manual transmission. Centerforce clutch. Tail light conversion. A/C. BeCool radiator. Red exterior with custom black and white leather interior by Mid America Motorworks.
Replaced the fluid..did figure 8's for a bit...took her out on the road...still making noise.

I did notice a new problem though...in reverse, she has started to clunk, clack, click, and shudder. <---I know..good use of descriptive language Wink
So I'm thinking that it HAS to be CV or UJ's..maybe both?  Any idea's??

If i reverse at a good rate of speed, stop rapidly, then roll forward it lets out a single clunk..then if i accelerate she squeeks while I let it coast to a stop in 1st gear.

The shudder only happens in reverse...and at slow speeds (noticed it while backing her back into the garage).

I'm about ready to say screw it and either get all new parts for the rear end or just take it to the shop Confused 



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Rear End Griding...again :(

Posted: 3/28/08 7:38pm Message 12 of 15
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
1) The skweeking(hi-tech terminology) is the give-away...it's the u-joints.
2) The clunk you hear while changing directions could well be the front diff cushion/mount.


Joel Adams
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Rear End Griding...again :(

Posted: 3/29/08 6:16am Message 13 of 15
Former Member
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Tacoma, WA - USA
Joined: 10/30/2007
Posts: 85
Vette(s): 1979 L48 Resto-Mod. ZZ383 w/ TKO-500 manual transmission. Centerforce clutch. Tail light conversion. A/C. BeCool radiator. Red exterior with custom black and white leather interior by Mid America Motorworks.
Thanks Adam.
The skweeking gives it away eh?  Glad to see someone speaks the same technical language as me...I'm betting that you can also point out the "doohickie" , "whatchamacallit" and the "hooptiedoo" on my Vette as well. (there are numerous hooptiedoo's and doohickie's on my car). LOL

So here's the next question...U-joints...easy enough for an amateur like myself...or should I save the time and money by taking it to the shop??

-Shane






Rear End Griding...again :(

Posted: 3/29/08 10:36pm Message 14 of 15
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Yelm, WA - USA
Joined: 7/12/2007
Posts: 356
Vette(s): 1979 L82 4 speed Scat 383 crank 190 cc Procomp Aluminum Heads 202 160 stainless valves GM Powder metal rods Speedpro H860CP Hypereutectic pistons 280 cam hydralic HEI Pro comp 1.6 roller rockers Mighty Demon 750 Sanderson CC1AP Hedders.
[QUOTE=LukesVette]Shane fly safe and thanks for supporting us grunts on the groud!!
 
SSG Lukas
101st Airborne
 
(aka Paul)
[/QUOTE]
-.0
 
Yep, there's nothing better than knowing you guys are up there and are just a radio call away from making the bad guys have a really really bad day! Thumbs%20Up
 
U-joints aint bad, it's easier if you clean up and lube the inside where the caps press into and take your time so you don't bend anything. The only downside is that there's 6 of em. If I were to take mine in to a shop I'd find a driveline shop to do em up for me.   



Rear End Griding...again :(

Posted: 4/4/08 1:01am Message 15 of 15
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New Zealand
Joined: 3/26/2005
Posts: 232
Vette(s): Silver '81 mostly original C3. Silver interior, bilstiens, big sway bars, headers.
Yup I'd be looking at the U joints. Get a mate, jack the rear wheels off the ground. Grab one end of half shaft and give it a real healthy side ways push and pull while your mate turns the wheel slowly. Mine was fine in one position but turn it 90 degrees and it just rattled back and forward. When I took it out there were NO needles left in one of the cups, and very few in it's opposite cup. Unbelievable. Do both ends of course. If it's as bad as mine was you'll soon feel it believe me !

Not a hard job, but you do need a BIG vice and some good size sockets as you have to "press" the cross out of the axle end with the vice in each direction to release each cap and remove it. I should have taken photos wen I did it !

Also getting the half shaft off in the first place can be a little interesting... you have to mark where the "camber plate" currently is, undo the big nut, and rotate the camber bolt so that the hub assembly is pushed outwards as far as it will go in order to get the clearance needed to get the half shaft out. Even then I had to rotate my wheel a bit as well.

We took two hours to do one half shaft out, both u-joints removed and replaced, and the half shaft back in. But it was our first time, and now that we know what we're doing (haha) the next one will be quicker !




Kiwi Chris

in Forum: C3 Driveline Components


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