Well, Replaced the rear seal on the differential over spring break. Had to drop the front of the unit because the suspension cross member seemed to be in there really really solidly.

I haven't been home yet since then and might have put 100 miles on the car before I left. My question is that my mom reports fluid on the garage floor at the rear of the car. Not sure what else back there could be leaking except the differential. Will have to do the job myself this time so its not actually feasible for me to drop the front of the unit again.

Can the differential cover/suspension crossmember be removed for gasket replacement?

Any pitfalls that are different from removing the front of the unit I should be aware of?

Can someone recommend a gasket for me and a site to purchase from? Seems to me if its leaking less than two months after replacement either the factory gasket I got from Chevrolet dealer was no good or I screwed something up.

None of it looked cracked...anything specific I should look for in terms of cracks?

Why me?

Should I give the differential more drivetime before assuming I made a mistake and see if that stops the leak?

Recommendations for getting it right second time?

Scot

Take it easy there, Scot. Catch a breath before you give yourself an aneurysm.

One: Are we sure Mom has the proper diagnosis? No offense intended, just a serious question. This could be as simple as having a MINOR engine oil leak that bleeds where you normally park your car - except that now your car is backed in (or nosed in) and that oil puddle is under the opposite end of the car masquerading as a mortally wounded rear end.

Two: How much life essence are we talking about here? Is it a spot the size of a quarter, or is the car actually floating on a 90W pond?

The first step to recovery is to check the gear oil level in the differential.

STEP A - Be sure the drain plug is tightened to spec before and after you check the differential. Also check the condition of your plug gasket. (I'm guessing you probably replaced that when you did the seal, but, if you didn't, then replace it now.)

STEP B - If the oil level is up to spec, put another 100 miles on it and check it again. Then proceed to STEP D. OR, if the level is a little low,

STEP C - fill appropriately. Then, re-torque the cover bolts to spec in a criss-crossing pattern, never sequentially. Wipe everything dry, but stay under there and watch for few minutes. If you can't detect a leak visually, drive it around for an hour or two (maybe that carb needs a good cleaning ).

STEP D - After you park it for the night, put a sheet of aluminum foil on the floor under the differential. Weight down the corners so it can't get be blown out of place. Next day, check your handy-dandy drip pan for sign.

Let us know what you find.

"Git 'er done!"

John

lumberjack said: Take it easy there, Scot. Catch a breath before you give yourself an aneurysm. One: Are we sure Mom has the proper diagnosis? No offense intended, just a serious question. This could be as simple as having a MINOR engine oil leak that bleeds where you normally park your car - except that now your car is backed in (or nosed in) and that oil puddle is under the opposite end of the car masquerading as a mortally wounded rear end. Two: How much life essence are we talking about here? Is it a spot the size of a quarter, or is the car actually floating on a 90W pond? The first step to recovery is to check the gear oil level in the differential. STEP A - Be sure the drain plug is tightened to spec before and after you check the differential. Also check the condition of your plug gasket. (I'm guessing you probably replaced that when you did the seal, but, if you didn't, then replace it now.) STEP B - If the oil level is up to spec, put another 100 miles on it and check it again. Then proceed to STEP D. OR, if the level is a little low, STEP C - fill appropriately. Then, re-torque the cover bolts to spec in a criss-crossing pattern, never sequentially. Wipe everything dry, but stay under there and watch for few minutes. If you can't detect a leak visually, drive it around for an hour or two (maybe that carb needs a good cleaning ). STEP D - After you park it for the night, put a sheet of aluminum foil on the floor under the differential. Weight down the corners so it can't get be blown out of place. Next day, check your handy-dandy drip pan for sign. Let us know what you find. "Git 'er done!" John

I suspect mom parked it nose in as I do...she hates backing up in the car(driving it is just a step down on the list of hate for her ) Definitely worth checking though.

The size of lake leak was unmentioned, but if she noticed it I'd guess substantial.

Plug Gasket you say? Definitely didn't replace it, don't think I even saw it...Got a picture?

Thursday looks like the day I'll know. Stupid Greyhound...but it gets me home!

Scot

Sorry, Scot. No pics. It is just a garden-variety-looking circular gasket for the drain plug. GM part number is 3714775. This was used on Vettes for about 15 years. Should be an OTC item anywhere, run you two or three bucks.

John