Topic: Rear leaf spring - ADDED PICTURES
in Forum: C3 Driveline Components
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[QUOTE=bytor]
Mkapp7879, thanks for the insight. I do have the rear stabilizer and my spring does have the 2 shims. Your 2nd. picture looks like mine, no arch in the spring. Is this normal?
[/QUOTE] All 3 of my gymkhana equipted look like the pic. I took some measurements today. With 255-60 tires inflated to 30 lbs. I got 28 1/4" from the ground to the fender lip on both the white 79(the pic above) and the 78SA. The black 79 measured 28 3/4", probably because it's spent every winter for 23 years up on jacks.SPONSOR AD:: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)
As some have already pointed out, check the strut rods. My 78 looked just like that, tires wearing big time on the inside edges. Had the strut cams adjusted and it sits real nice now. How long it will stay, I don't know, only put about 30 miles on it since I got it back. Also, my spring looks a lot flater than yours, and back of car sits nice. I measured from floor to ends and center and only have about 7/8 inch arch.

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Maybe the rear alignment is off from pulling a trailer!! I see the trailer hitch parts there!!
John, from the looks of the pics, and your description, I think you just need an alignment. If the bushings in the strut rods are worn/bad, then you'll need to have them replaced, first.
I drove the '74 for a long time with the tops of the wheels in at the top, before I finally got under there, and adjusted the strut rod/camber bolts. I just "eyeballed" it, but that got the job done.

John, from the looks of the pics, and your description, I think you just need an alignment. If the bushings in the strut rods are worn/bad, then you'll need to have them replaced, first.
I drove the '74 for a long time with the tops of the wheels in at the top, before I finally got under there, and adjusted the strut rod/camber bolts. I just "eyeballed" it, but that got the job done.

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I had the same problem awhile back, wearing out tires in a short period. Replaced my strut rods because the bushings were worn out and couldn't get a good adjustment. Replaced it with the threaded type from midamerica. Part number 602-896 on page 180.
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You can use a carpenter's level to get the correct angle/ camber adjustment on your back tires. Your tires should be about 1/8" to 1/4" in at the top compared to the bottom. You measure the outer bead of the rim at the top and bottom with the level. The trick is to attach a couple of blocks to the level with tie wraps. The block on the top needs to be 1/4" wider than the one on the bottom. This allows you to take the measurement on the rim and not the tire. You have to make an adjustment and then roll the car back and forth. This settles the suspension. Then check with the level. I got this tip from a corvette suspension manual awhile back.
Steve
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[QUOTE=smscorvette]You can use a carpenter's level to get the correct angle/ camber adjustment on your back tires. Your tires should be about 1/8" to 1/4" in at the top compared to the bottom. You measure the outer bead of the rim at the top and bottom with the level. The trick is to attach a couple of blocks to the level with tie wraps. The block on the top needs to be 1/4" wider than the one on the bottom.
mkapp7879 2007-05-03 21:04:19
Steve[/QUOTE] Good tip. I tried this last week using masking tape to attach 1/2" sockets onto a 2' level on end. I like the idea of two different size blocks, tho. Maybe the bottom socket could be a 3/8" drive. Was able to eyeball the gap and came out close enough, about the 1/4".
Years ago I had a wooden level that I cut down to check front end camber on my GTO. I was always messing with the suspension on it and got tired of paying for alignments. In fact, after one alignment I checked with my level and it was off, both sides. Took it to another place and they confirmed it. This was back in the days before computer equipment.
[QUOTE=smscorvette]You can use a carpenter's level to get the correct angle/ camber adjustment on your back tires. Your tires should be about 1/8" to 1/4" in at the top compared to the bottom. You measure the outer bead of the rim at the top and bottom with the level. The trick is to attach a couple of blocks to the level with tie wraps. The block on the top needs to be 1/4" wider than the one on the bottom. This allows you to take the measurement on the rim and not the tire. You have to make an adjustment and then roll the car back and forth. This settles the suspension. Then check with the level. I got this tip from a corvette suspension manual awhile back.
[/QUOTE]
Steve
Good tip Steve - thanks! 

in Forum: C3 Driveline Components
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