Topic: Rear-end problems
in Forum: C3 Driveline Components
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Charleston AFB, SC - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 111
Vette(s): 1979 Cream Beige Coupe w/383 & 700R4
Well, I still haven't had a chance to pull the rear-end apart and look at it, but I think I have a trashed spider gear. I've had the right rear tire lock up several times while driving slow, and I have to put it in reverse/etc and play with it to get it to unlock so I could make it home.
I'll admit I know absolutely nothing about rear ends, how hard is this going to be to fix if it is a spider gear or something, or should I just let someone do it? And if I let someone, how much should I expect to pay? I don't mind getting my hands dirty but rear-ends (like transmissions, which I also seem to be having bad times with 
) aren't my specialties.
) aren't my specialties.And other than that, how much power can the stock 79 rear handle? Mine has 3.55 gears and I'm guessing 400+hp coming from the crank to it, can they handle that?
Thanks a ton as always,
-Josh
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It could be that you have had some bolts come loose inside, or one of the keepers break and they get spun up into the gears at slow speed. It might not be as bad as it sounds.
Former Member
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Charleston AFB, SC - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 111
Vette(s): 1979 Cream Beige Coupe w/383 & 700R4
I am going to try and take the rear cover off tomorrow and look at it. Anything I should watch for?
Thanks
Josh,
That's a pretty big job. Do you have the car up on a lift? That case is an integral part if the entire suspension setup. The yolks are held in place with big snap rings. You might tear into it just enough to look around. It may be something obvious. I am here in Charleston if you need another set of eyes.
Scott
That's a pretty big job. Do you have the car up on a lift? That case is an integral part if the entire suspension setup. The yolks are held in place with big snap rings. You might tear into it just enough to look around. It may be something obvious. I am here in Charleston if you need another set of eyes.
Scott
Takin the rear cover off a Vette,is a lot more work than a regular rear wheel drive car.Ya gotta pull the leaf spring off,make sure you use P.B.Blaster,or WD40,or some other lube on the bolts that hold the spring on the rear cover.the bolts may break off,or the holes in the cover will break off if your not careful.if you do break off the bolt holes,and you have to buy a new cover,buy a heavy duty one,and use new bolts.While youve got the spring off,may as well replace the rubbers at the ends of the spring and the trailing arm,it's also a great time to install a new composite fibre glass spring,one thing leads to another,pretty soon you'll have the whole rear suspension replaced 
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Former Member
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Charleston AFB, SC - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 111
Vette(s): 1979 Cream Beige Coupe w/383 & 700R4
Oh wow I didn't know you had to remove the spring and everything. I have a lift I can use which isn't a problem, but I don't have the slightest idea how to do all that. Now I'm torn on what I should do? Think this is something 1 guy who is pretty mechanical can do by himself?
defsegx 2007-12-06 17:25:12
And thanks a lot Scott. Glad to see another north charleston person here 
I'm in the AF, live on base here.
I'm in the AF, live on base here.
First thing Josh is stop at a autoparts store and pick yourself up a Haynes Manual and a Chiltons Manual. There are step by step instructions on how to do this task. And you being a A/C maintainer (as I once was) and following the A/C T.O.'s you should have no problem reading and interpreting an auto repair manual.
Is there a Auto craft shop on base where the boys fix and hop up their toys? If so, you may want to talk to the manager there and see if they'll let you have have a bay for a few days.
Find a reputable shop that can rebuild the differential for you. Get all these factors lined up and go for it.
I think the most dangerous part of the job is getting the leaf spring released from each end. Then it's a matter of fighting with stubborn nuts and bolts to get it apart.
Keep us posted...and thank you for your service.
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Josh,
Sarge is right. Get an assembly manual first and study what you are getting into. This is a big job. I am sure you are more than capable given your technical training. However, this isn't something to experiment with, you need to understand the process prior to removing the first bolt. I'm close if you need help.
Scott
Sarge is right. Get an assembly manual first and study what you are getting into. This is a big job. I am sure you are more than capable given your technical training. However, this isn't something to experiment with, you need to understand the process prior to removing the first bolt. I'm close if you need help.
Scott
Lifetime MemberJoined: 9/8/2005
Posts: 241
Vette(s): 1980 with a Banks Twin Turbo
1969 Convert Big Block
1996 Grand Sport Convert
I would think that the above diagnostics are corect that something is getting sucked up into the Gears but I'm at little Concerned that only one side is Locking up. Could it be a Spindle Bearing? If a loose object is in the Bearing it would lock up as well. Another Idea is the Brake Rotor itself. I have had Two BMW's and both of them have had the same thing happen. You will be Tooling down the Freeway and all of a sudden the most off full Scretching sounds starts and You pull over and Back up and a stone or whatever falls out one of the Rear Rotors and You just take off and everything is back to normal. Richard...
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I have to agree with Richard on the assessment of what is actually wrong here...
A spider bite(or any junk floating around in the diff) won't just "lock up" one side of the diff...it would effect both sides. I think I'd be taking a look at the parking brake mechanism. If a spring, or a clip has broken inside the drum area of the p-brake, it could cause that one wheel to lock.
Diff damage like you describe will almost always have nasty noises associated with it.
as an afterthough...I have seen instances of a brake caliper bolt shearing off, or falling out, allowing the caliper to pivot up on the remaining bolt, wedging the caliper between the wheel, locking it up.
Either way, I'd take a look at the wheel end of the rear before going thru the headache of removing the diff.
Adams' Apple 2007-12-07 06:26:37
A spider bite(or any junk floating around in the diff) won't just "lock up" one side of the diff...it would effect both sides. I think I'd be taking a look at the parking brake mechanism. If a spring, or a clip has broken inside the drum area of the p-brake, it could cause that one wheel to lock.
Diff damage like you describe will almost always have nasty noises associated with it.
as an afterthough...I have seen instances of a brake caliper bolt shearing off, or falling out, allowing the caliper to pivot up on the remaining bolt, wedging the caliper between the wheel, locking it up.
Either way, I'd take a look at the wheel end of the rear before going thru the headache of removing the diff.
Joel Adams
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