HELP!

I went to remove the driveshaft today so we could put front & rear seals on the transmission and change u-joints while the motor is at the machinist and I couldn't figure out how to remove the rear u-joint holders.  They aren't 7/16 and they don't appear to be allen or torx.  They look like a funky, modified 5/16 something or other.

I checked the book and it says remove the front and rear u-joint straps with a 7/16 wrench.  Also, if I did have a wrench or socket, I don't know how you would get in there.  the support that bolts to the crossmember is in the way and that crossmember doesn't come out.

Any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated as always.

I had to use a small wrench & I think it was 7/16. Try a metric wrench, maybe someone buggered them up on the last install. You have to turn the drive shaft alot to get at each bolt, but it's possible. Install new bolts for the install.

Alan

Best approach is a 7/16 socket on a veeerrryyy long extension. Approach it from the front of the car, keeping the extension parrallel with the drive shaft. Have a buddy help you get the socket on the bolts. If 7/16 seems too big and 3/8 is too small, somewhere around a 10MM socket should do the trick.

Good luck

Paul

LukesVette38964.2503819444

On my 68 BB car, the u-joint straps were 5/16-24, so I had to get in there with a 1/2 wrench.  It was a 1/8 a turn at a time becacause to the front diff. suppt., it took awhile but it can be done, good luck-Phil flandy38964.4932175926

Could they be 5/16" 12 point bolts? Most of the late Sharks had these on the half-shafts. Could be that someone has replaced the diff bolts with half-shaft bolts.
The best way, regardless, is to come in from the front side, with an extension/socket. Be carefull not to round the heads off....that's a real pita to overcome!

Why not just take that pinion support bracket off? I just sheared the 2 cotter pins off on the long cross bolts, too hard to get at them, and unbolted the bolt in front. Most likely you'll need a new cushion at the topside anyway. I did on an 11K mile car. Just to be safe, I measured the threads sticking out at the bottom. Mike mkapp787938964.4795949074

After thinking about your straps, if they aren't 5/16-24, they could be metric, try a 10mm box wrench on them and see if that works.  1980 was the year the General went to about half fasteners being metric, also look at the bolt heads, if they say 8.8, 9.8, or 10.9, that is the sure give-away.  Good luck-Phil

Thanks, guys.

I'll get to see her again this coming weekend.  She is currently housed at 71Shark's place until the bullet comes back.  I think, possibly, that they were metric 12 points that have been rounded to a point so nothing is visible on the heads.  May have to take an air cutoff and see if they can be cut off flush, then removed with the driveshaft out of the way.

I'll get back there with a scraper and see if I can get enough gunk out of the way to find all the bolts and try Mikes idea of pulling, then replacing the cushion.  If it isn't rotted by 26 yrs of time, the oil soaking it has gotten over the past few years will have certainly mushed it.

She's got her quirks, but I am actually enjoying wrenching on her.  It sure beats having to wrench on the daily driver!

I just di this a few weeks ago.  I have an '81, so I suspect we have exactly the same U-joint strap bolts.  Mine were SAE, not metric.  They require a 12-point socket, which can be hard to find in that small size.  I wish I could remember the exact size, but I can't - it's either 1/4 or 5/16.  I had to go to a specialty tool vendor to get 12-point sockets that small...

Actually, I think they ARE 1/4" 12 points. The late(81-82) cars are, anyway.