Topic: Removal of Driveshaft from Rearend
in Forum: C3 Driveline Components
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Well, we got her up on the lift and scrubbed the bolt heads with a wire
brush and they appear to be 1/4, definitely 12 point and 1 is
definitely screwed up
. I got all the way over to 71Shark's place (38+miles) and remembered I was going to bring my 12 point set with me...
We got the engine compartment painted and ground off the area in front of the power steering pump so the belt will go on.
Can't wait to get the engine back. I think I'll go visitin' Friday to see where they are.


We got the engine compartment painted and ground off the area in front of the power steering pump so the belt will go on.
Can't wait to get the engine back. I think I'll go visitin' Friday to see where they are.
Joel;
I have replaced the pan gasket 3 times now and still can't get it to stop leaking around the passenger side front. I put Blue RTV on the pan side, stick the gasket to it and tighten with a 1/4" drive, bringing all up around the pan and taking 3 times to finally tighten. Why can't I get it to stop leaking?
I thought it was too much torque but made sure to not crush the gasket out this time
.
BTW, it has a broken bolt on the one that holds the extra bracket
on. It is the forwardmost one on the bracket. I tried to
back it out, but couldn't at my place. Will try it in the air
next. I really would like to see this leak stop as the front
& rear seals appear to have stopped all the other leaks.
Any thoughts/help would be, as always, greatly appreciated!
I have replaced the pan gasket 3 times now and still can't get it to stop leaking around the passenger side front. I put Blue RTV on the pan side, stick the gasket to it and tighten with a 1/4" drive, bringing all up around the pan and taking 3 times to finally tighten. Why can't I get it to stop leaking?
I thought it was too much torque but made sure to not crush the gasket out this time

Any thoughts/help would be, as always, greatly appreciated!
dnv- Are you talking tranny leak? If you are, make sure you have the source of the leak. I changed my pan and gasket twice before we discovered two seals were bad. One for the speedo and one for the passing gear. Replaced the seals and now no leaks.


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Well, it is a 1/4" 12 point to remove the rear and 7/16 to remove the front u-joint straps.
Also, if you go to Auto Zone, or other parts stores, make them give you the correct u-joints for both ends. Apparently, the transmission end is bigger than the pumpkin end. And wouldn't you know, I didn't find out until around 11pm, so they were closed and the 24 hr one is miles away
.
I did have to weld about 5 cracks and bad welds from the PO having a wrecked front end "fixed"
.
3 or 4 more welding rods and he could have done the job right. It
looked like they tried to MIG weld the front crossmember on the
firewall side because there were several pieces of tiny wire about 1/2"
long protruding from the gobs that looked like a first attempt at
welding. She should be much safer now.
Also, if you go to Auto Zone, or other parts stores, make them give you the correct u-joints for both ends. Apparently, the transmission end is bigger than the pumpkin end. And wouldn't you know, I didn't find out until around 11pm, so they were closed and the 24 hr one is miles away

I did have to weld about 5 cracks and bad welds from the PO having a wrecked front end "fixed"

OK, I guess I owe Auto Zone an apology (a small one). Apparently,
when the 80 was hit, it was hit hard in the front. It must have
been hard enough that they replaced everything all the way back because
the 79 driveshaft u-joints fit. The fronts are the same as 80,
but the rear is smaller, or at least that is what we found when the guy
pulled out the book, not their computer.
On the other hand, it is a fairly early '80 car, so it could be a left over parts car from the 79 line.
Anyway, I now understand why you guys document with P/N's and pix.
On the other hand, it is a fairly early '80 car, so it could be a left over parts car from the 79 line.
Anyway, I now understand why you guys document with P/N's and pix.

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[QUOTE=dnv] Joel;
I have replaced the pan gasket 3 times now and still can't get it to
stop leaking around the passenger side front. I put Blue RTV on
the pan side, stick the gasket to it and tighten with a 1/4" drive,
bringing all up around the pan and taking 3 times to finally
tighten. Why can't I get it to stop leaking?[/QUOTE]
Sorry, Dennis! I just went thru this thread again and saw yer question!
If you have a persistant leak around the front passenger side of the trans, after changing the gasket, etc., it's most likely not the pan that is leaking.
On the pass. side front of the trans is the filler tube, and the kick-down cable. Most of the time, when I hear of a repeated leak in that area, it is either the filler tube or the cable leaking. The fluid will run down the side of the tranz, and seep around the edge of the pan, making it look like the pan is leaking.
Check the cable and the tube carefully. Remember, fluid will flow downward...not upward. If there is any fluid above the pan rail, it is leaking above the pan, and running down.
The filler tube and the cable have formed rubber seals that insert into the trans for a seal. The cable is very fragile after a few years, and it will break right there where the bolt holds the cable to the tranz. I would bet that is yer leak. If the cable is broken there, it must be replaced. If it is just leaking, then you can replace the seal only.
There is also an accummulator on that side of the trans, about halfway back from the front. They do leak sometimes, too.
Also...never use any type of sealer on a pan gasket. If the pan and the trans flange are clean and dry, the gasket will seal. Sillycone(RTV) sealants will skwish the gasket out...(that stuff is quite slippery)and it will leak.
Adams' Apple 38969.780625
I have replaced the pan gasket 3 times now and still can't get it to
stop leaking around the passenger side front. I put Blue RTV on
the pan side, stick the gasket to it and tighten with a 1/4" drive,
bringing all up around the pan and taking 3 times to finally
tighten. Why can't I get it to stop leaking?[/QUOTE]



If you have a persistant leak around the front passenger side of the trans, after changing the gasket, etc., it's most likely not the pan that is leaking.
On the pass. side front of the trans is the filler tube, and the kick-down cable. Most of the time, when I hear of a repeated leak in that area, it is either the filler tube or the cable leaking. The fluid will run down the side of the tranz, and seep around the edge of the pan, making it look like the pan is leaking.
Check the cable and the tube carefully. Remember, fluid will flow downward...not upward. If there is any fluid above the pan rail, it is leaking above the pan, and running down.

The filler tube and the cable have formed rubber seals that insert into the trans for a seal. The cable is very fragile after a few years, and it will break right there where the bolt holds the cable to the tranz. I would bet that is yer leak. If the cable is broken there, it must be replaced. If it is just leaking, then you can replace the seal only.


There is also an accummulator on that side of the trans, about halfway back from the front. They do leak sometimes, too.
Also...never use any type of sealer on a pan gasket. If the pan and the trans flange are clean and dry, the gasket will seal. Sillycone(RTV) sealants will skwish the gasket out...(that stuff is quite slippery)and it will leak.


Joel Adams
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Use a few dabs of gasket adhesive instead of the RTV if the pan is straight. This will keep it in place and not create a wavy surface which could be a source for a trans pan leak. 

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Joel/Luke;
Thanks. I'll be back to see her next week and will check the cable. I might have screwed up the seal when I had the shift problem with the plunger. It is working fine now but I moved the cable around quite a bit.
I'll go ahead and replace the pan gasket one more time, this time without sealer as I have a broken bolt from the PO that needs to be removed and replaced with a fresh bolt. Now that it is on 71Sharks lift, I can get to it much easier. THANKS TIM
We get the bullet back next Friday to start the build process on.
Keep yer fingers crossed.
Thanks. I'll be back to see her next week and will check the cable. I might have screwed up the seal when I had the shift problem with the plunger. It is working fine now but I moved the cable around quite a bit.
I'll go ahead and replace the pan gasket one more time, this time without sealer as I have a broken bolt from the PO that needs to be removed and replaced with a fresh bolt. Now that it is on 71Sharks lift, I can get to it much easier. THANKS TIM

We get the bullet back next Friday to start the build process on.

in Forum: C3 Driveline Components
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