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Topic: Replacing the Yokes

in Forum: C3 Driveline Components


Replacing the Yokes

Posted: 1/11/06 10:42am Message 1 of 4
Former Member
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Joined: 10/20/2004
Posts: 123
Continuing with my rebuild of the rear end, has anyone ever replaced the two yokes coming out of the differential? It looks terribly easy, remove the end clips and slide out the yokes, replace with the new ones!   Is that it? Is there anything I would need to be careful with?

My local vette shops want $600.00 to replace the yokes. I figured $200.00 for the 2 yokes, but can’t figure out what the other $400 is for. Any ideas?



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Replacing the Yokes

Posted: 1/11/06 2:02pm Message 2 of 4
Former Member
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Naples, FL - USA
Joined: 2/26/2005
Posts: 133
Vette(s): 1976 coupe with a custom body and a 396 big block with nitrous installed. Runs great!!
Steve,
When replacing inner axels(yokes)themsevles are not that hard. Replacing the bearings is little more involved.
To replace the axles take off the housing cover and remove the cross bolt out of the differential and slide out the differential pinion shaft. This holds in the spider gears in and gives you access to the C-clips on the yokes. Save the thrust washers to their seperate spider gear.If the yokes are worn out chances are the bearings will need replacing. You will have to pull out the carrier to do replace them. (This is where the $400.00 comes in). Have a mechanic check the condition of the yokes and make this decision for you.
If you have a moderate mechanical ability you could remove the bearings. It is not all that difficult just time consuming. Give yourself several hours to do it.
Before removing the carrier, as a reference point, check the ring gear backlash and write down the dial movement.It will give you an idea of the condition of the rear gears and will tell you if you got the reinstall correct.Some people don't but it gives you a piece of mind when reinstalling the carrier.
Remove the 4 bolts for the carrier and keep the bearing caps seperate so you replace them back on the same side they came off. They may be marked (or you may want to mark them)with one and two dots and the housing the same.When removing the carrier be sure to save the shims on the end of the carrier bearings. Keep them seperate to each side because they will probably be different thickness and are critical to the diff setup. The carrier may come out easy or it may come out hard. Usually they come out relativly easy. Now would a good time to check the condition of the carrier and gears. Look for telltale signs of metal in the oil. Look at the gears for any signs of abnomal wear such as scoring on the face of the gears,chipped or cracked ring gear and differential gears. Check the differential pinion shaft (the shaft that holds the spider gears in the differential)on the ends where it contacts the differential housing and check for wear. This is a problem area for vette diffs.(the housing could be wore in a oblong way also). There are several ways to correct this if it is a problem.
After you have the carrier out, tap out the axle bearings (in the housing) with a long brass drift pin. Be sure to tap at several points on the bearing and try to not bang up the bearing mating surface.Clean up the housing where they came out and tap the new ones in. (Don't forget to replace the seal when sliding the axles back in). Everything goes back on the way it came off. The carrier may or may not need persuading when replacing. Use a heavy hard rubber or plastic mallet and seat both side equal if needed. Torque the carrier bolts and recheck the backlash with a dial indicator. It shouldn't be different to when you took the carrier out. Bolt up the cover and refill with synthetic rearend oil. This isn't too hard it just take time and patience. Have a friend who is rearend knowledgable standing by (or on call)to give you a hand if needed. If you need anything just let me know. Good luck.
   Phil


Replacing the Yokes

Posted: 1/11/06 2:28pm Message 3 of 4
Former Member
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Joined: 10/20/2004
Posts: 123
Wow this is great… My thought is that I had the rear end rebuilt about 3K miles ago. I would “assume” they replaced the bearings but am not sure.   I do know he did not replace the yokes.

As you said, maybe a trip back to the mechanic will be in order before I really screw things up!!

Phil, you going to the NCRS show in Kissimmee this weekend?   Let me know, I’ll be there!

Thx,
Steve



Replacing the Yokes

Posted: 1/13/06 2:39pm Message 4 of 4
Former Member
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Naples, FL - USA
Joined: 2/26/2005
Posts: 133
Vette(s): 1976 coupe with a custom body and a 396 big block with nitrous installed. Runs great!!
Steve,
Unfortunatly I can't go because of I have to help friend with his car so I will have to miss this year. I will be going on the Hot Rod power tour again in early June and hopefully the C3vr getogether in Pidgeon Fork.
If you did have the rear rebuilt recently the mechanic should have replaced all the bearings. Ask him if he did the yoke bearings so you won't have to.It will make your life a lot easier if he did. These bearing are not stressed as much such as the carrier and pinion bearings.They just center the axle in place and let it spin freely. Chances are you shouldn't have to replace them. My carrier was damaged through stress and I change all my bearing but the inner axle bearings were fine. I really didn't need to change them.
Phil


in Forum: C3 Driveline Components


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