WOW! One word to describe the incredible difference this transmission makes.

I considered the Keisler, Tremec conversion, T56, and even a ZF. All of them end up being about $3K-$4K when complete.

You may ask...why did I pick the ROD?

1. I wanted a six speed...if for nothing else than the sleek, sexy, cool look of the six speed handle and indicator plate.

2. Regardless of what "non-biased" publications say about the pros/cons of the different trans...the ROD has a good reputation and has been stuffed behind some pretty serious monsters over the last number of years.

3. The external shifter rods work well on the jerico race transmissions, and were not very difficult to set up on my 69--vs. the internal rail shift.

4. It more or less bolted right in. No driveshaft mods, no console mods, and not bellhousing/clutch mods.

***what I did have to do***

I had to section out my X member because my car was always a stick (welded in). I did this with a sawsall. We welded mounting plates to make it a removeable unit (extra $100 and week worth of messing around my full time job). We cut and welded the main trans mount (took five minutes).

The perormance is out of this world. First gear is easy and smooth (2.77). I have a gear for virtually every speed, and overdrive (.62) is wicked low.

I am taking the first road trip Saturday 10/11. I have very few miles on it, so this will be a bit of trial and error. Should have another 500 miles on the car after this weekend.

Total final cost--about $3,800--including a new clutch disc, and converting from my hydraulic to a manual clutch (the hydraulic would have worked, but I cut the seal in error, and did not have enough time to order a new one ($4), and get it installed in time for this weekend.

I however only have a couple of hundred in the swap as I did some trading with my buddy on his 71 Vert to get the ROD.

How hard to do the same modifications to a "born" auto car?

Paragon

Easier in some ways since your x member is alread a bolt in. Harder, because you have to add the clutch pedal and shift console lid.

Chris,
Do you have any pics of the completed installation? I would like to see how it looks. (under car and console pics)
Sarge

Congrats! How exciting. I have my ROD 6-speed on order through Summit and should be receiving it in a couple weeks. I am a bit unsure about the crossmember mods-or I should say, how to go about them, as my body is off right now. I think I'll cut the crossmember's center portion out, install the tranny, support the rear end of it, and then lower, very carefully, the body back in place, adjusting position of tranny tail shaft as necessary. Then we have a portable welder friend who can come over and fix the mount.
Did you modify the mount area just enough the tranny clears the tunnel? Is it highly critical the tranny/engine's angle?
Patricia/'75 in progress

The X member is really simple.

If your car is an auto trans, you are already half way there. The trans mount is the same horizontal position relative to the original one. What does this mean? It means that you can remove your X member. Scribe a horizontal line on it at the position of the current trans mount location, cut the current trans mount pad area and make it 3.5" shorter.

There is no need to mess with your trans tunnel, or try to "guess" where to place the trans mount area.

So to clarify, you're saying you don't have to alter the height of the tranny's tailshaft; just move it rear-ward by 3.5"? Am I understanding correctly?

You are correct.

Get your stock trans out and put it next to your ROD. Measure from the center of the output shaft down to the horizontal plane that the trans mount bolts to. You will find the Richmond is the same as the stock unit.

Ah. I gotcha. Richmond told me on the phone that I should also drop the tail down because (as they said) when the tranny is longer, if all you do is move the mount bracket rearward (on the crossmember), then the tranny's tail will be closer to the top of the tunner (and may interfere), because of the slight driveline angle. They recommended dropping the mount location something like 2-1/2" I believe (their website has an article about it) to maintain the stock driveline angle...? It's interesting you did not do that and still cleared the top of the tunnel.

Patricia/'75

The transmission is not longer. In fact, it is nearly a 1/2" shorter than the muncie. I don't know why they would say that.

Now...you will have to trim just a tad of the trans tunnel opening where the shifter goes. No big deal. Go get a new boot from your local auto parts store (Mr. Gasket has one)to replace the stock rubber one that mounts right to the tunnel. You can bend and fold the metal flange on the Mr. Gasket trans boot to go over the hole. I installed a couple of rivets, but maily secured the boot with some good adhesive. I have no heat or road noise coming through the boot as it is all a very tight seal.

Your stock boot won't survive the swap.