Home page
SPONSOR AD SPONSOR AD

Topic: This doesn't look good

in Forum: C3 Driveline Components


This doesn't look good

Posted: 6/17/07 1:00pm Message 1 of 11
Profile Pic
Former Member
Send PM
Cramerton, NC - USA
Joined: 8/22/2006
Posts: 1094
Vette(s): black 1982 coupe slate gray interior, 350 crossfire, 1985 fuel pump, Steeroids R&P conversion
I was under the rear of my 82 yesterday just poking around to see what I could see.  I found a greasy mess on the side of the battery compartment, on the floor pan over the rear universal on the driveshaft (propeller shaft) and on the side of the rear compartment (all underneath).  The universal itself isn't greasy but there isn't anywhere else the grease could have come from.  I can barely see the universal joint tucked into its recess and can't imagine what its going to take to replace it.  I think this one is beyond my megar mechanic abilities. It's always something !!!!!!!!!


SPONSOR AD:: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)

This doesn't look good

Posted: 6/17/07 2:59pm Message 2 of 11
Lifetime MemberLifetime Member
Send PM
Eastern Oklahoma County, OK - USA
Joined: 1/3/2006
Posts: 1560
Vette(s): 1980 Black L48 T-Tops
Crossfire, if you have a buddy with a lift, it's relatively easy, especially if you have about 15 feet of extensions and swivels for your rachetRolling%20On%20The%20Floor%20Laughing

I had to change mine out last year after it (rear U-joint) sheared and destroyed the rear input shaft, battery box, and other pieces.  It also helps to have two of you under the car so one can use a light and help guide the wrench onto the bolt while the other snakes it in. 

You will need a 12-point socket for the 4 bolts on the bracket holding the u-joint in.  It should be the same as the front, although mine weren't.  I can't remember what it was but I think it was a 10mm or there abouts.

A really long screwdriver also helps for popping the u-joint out of it's holder.

Good Luck!



This doesn't look good

Posted: 6/17/07 6:13pm Message 3 of 11
Profile Pic
Former Member
Send PM
Cramerton, NC - USA
Joined: 8/22/2006
Posts: 1094
Vette(s): black 1982 coupe slate gray interior, 350 crossfire, 1985 fuel pump, Steeroids R&P conversion
Thanks Dennis, I may get my nerve up and try it... going to have to look at this one again.


This doesn't look good

Posted: 6/17/07 6:20pm Message 4 of 11
Profile Pic
Lifetime MemberLifetime Member
Moderator
Send PM
Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20219
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Make sure it isn't the front diff seal leaking...it will sling fluid in the same areas.
Usually, if the u-joint is slinging grease, it's because someone pumped too much in it while servicing. Of course, if your's doesn't have grease zerks, then that wouldn't be the case!


Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    

My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)
             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

This doesn't look good

Posted: 6/18/07 6:35am Message 5 of 11
Lifetime MemberLifetime Member
Send PM
Eastern Oklahoma County, OK - USA
Joined: 1/3/2006
Posts: 1560
Vette(s): 1980 Black L48 T-Tops
The front seal on the pumpkin is easy (relatively speaking) to fix as well.  Ya just have to be patient (something I'm not) and have some kinda hookie thingie (technical term) to pull the old one out.  Putting the new one in is easy if you have a really big socket that goes to the outside of the seal.  use the socket and an extension and hit it with a hammer to seat it.


This doesn't look good

Posted: 6/18/07 7:27am Message 6 of 11
Profile Pic
Former Member
Send PM
Cramerton, NC - USA
Joined: 8/22/2006
Posts: 1094
Vette(s): black 1982 coupe slate gray interior, 350 crossfire, 1985 fuel pump, Steeroids R&P conversion

Thanks Joel, after looking again, I think its going to be the seal and not the universal.  Dennis, Im looking in my tool box for one of the hookie thingies, I know there is one in there somewhere LOL




This doesn't look good

Posted: 6/18/07 12:21pm Message 7 of 11
Profile Pic
Lifetime MemberLifetime Member
Send PM
Manteca, CA - USA
Joined: 11/20/2005
Posts: 3623
Vette(s): 1978,two tone,Metalic Rootbeer & gold 1975 L48 4 speed
I always keep mine in the bottom of my tool box (75#er) with all the other whatchamucallits. Always know where to find it LOL. aceinthehole2007-06-18 12:22:28


This doesn't look good

Posted: 6/18/07 3:35pm Message 8 of 11
Profile Pic
Former Member
Send PM
Cramerton, NC - USA
Joined: 8/22/2006
Posts: 1094
Vette(s): black 1982 coupe slate gray interior, 350 crossfire, 1985 fuel pump, Steeroids R&P conversion
Dennis, does your 80 have the aluminum "batwing" differential.  Mine has a front connector brace cast as part of the differential.  I can see the yoke coming out of the differential but for the life of me figure out how to get to it without dropping the exhuast system and crossmember the front connector brace bolts to. It looks like the 79 and older cars had the front connector brace to the differential bolted to the differential, unbolting them would give good access to the yoke.   Any advise for this intrepid mechanic?? 


This doesn't look good

Posted: 6/29/07 11:59pm Message 9 of 11
Former Member
Send PM
visalia, CA - USA
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 641
Vette(s): 1981 red with silver interior,350(L-81), 350TH, glass t-tops, aluminium rims, 1980 Black/ Black int., 350 GM crate engine/350TH, 1976 black/ saddle int., L-82 w/headers, holly carb, Hypertech ignition

starting  with  '80,  GM changed the diffs just as you said.  That bracket that bolted onto the older cars was now cast into or part of the diff. housing itself.  Thats why 1980-82 are listed differently then the rest in catiloges, etc..  What worked the best for me was, 1st-  get the rearend off the ground.  enough so  to be able to both spin wheels/ shaft freely, and have room to work.  I made full lenght ramps that I drive up on that gets the car off the ground, front and back, enough to work under it using a creeper.  2nd,  I use 1/4" drive, 12pt., socket w/  long extention.  I don't think I had to use a univeral,  but I'd have one handy just in case.  I was able to undo one side of the U-joint, then rotate 180 degrees and undo the other side.  once undone, slide shaft forward, clear rear flange and pull back out of tranny, remove shaft.  And I didnt have to drop the exhaust get it out, but thats on an '81... yours may be different.  Hope thats of some help.    Jimmy (aceinthehole) I know has done a lot of work on one of his (vettes) in that area. 




This doesn't look good

Posted: 7/1/07 6:52pm Message 10 of 11
Profile Pic
Former Member
Send PM
Cramerton, NC - USA
Joined: 8/22/2006
Posts: 1094
Vette(s): black 1982 coupe slate gray interior, 350 crossfire, 1985 fuel pump, Steeroids R&P conversion
Thanks deeboy, Ive not decided yet whether Ill try this one myself or get the local vette mechanic to do it.  That cast front brace sure creates a problem with access.


in Forum: C3 Driveline Components


SPONSOR AD: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)