Topic: Trailing Arm Finally Done
in Forum: C3 Driveline Components
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I finally got my right T/A project finished. I sent the right T/A to Malcom at www.http://stores.ebay.com/VetteRx-Inc-1-888-838-8379. Did a great job and turned it around in three days. My pin came out easily, but I replaced it anyway. I wire brushed my old shims and reused them. I installed new rear spring-to-T/A links/bushings as well. Malcom had everything I needed.
It went back together much more easily than it came apart. The result is NO MORE GROWLING NOISE from the rear. (It was the worn bearing after all, not my diff. In fact, it was so worn the spindle had to be replaced; it was worn too thin for new bearing races to seat.) Now all I hear is engine and wind, the way it is supposed to be in a Corvette! It also eliminated the rest of the vibration I felt, which I thought was a poor job of wheel balancing. It is more driveable than ever, which is the whole idea: making it nice enough to stay in the driver's seat instead of under the vehicle.
I can highly recommend Malcom. He is a professional and courteous man with a great knowledge of his business. His son also works in his shop, and is likewise knowledgable and friendly. They offer phone help with every step of the process, and they are very interested in your absolute satisfaction. I will give him my business in the future.
My other recommendation: If you are pndering replacing your C-3 parking brakes, why not consider a T/A rebuild, and have the shop do it at the same time, for nearly nothing extra? Replacing the parking brakes is the most frustrating and difficult job I have ever done on the Corvette, no thanks to the book instructions. (My experience with the right side, over five hours, made the right side go in only one hour once I understood what I was doing.)
I bought a power steering control valve from him while I was at it. The replacement will be the subject of another entry once I complete that. (Hoping to eliminate the 2-3 degrees of free play in the steering wheel, which is present even after replacing all the front end components.)
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Glad to hear it went well.
The play in the wheel could be the control valve, but keep in mind you may also need to adjust the steering box free play.
Lifetime MemberHOWELL, NJ - USA
Joined: 5/18/2004
Posts: 6812
Vette(s): 1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.
Try this link: http://www.vetterx.com/index.shtml
Another good guy for trailing arms is Jim Stevens. He can be reached at 608-365-0911. Tell him your from the club - he's a great guy, 1st class product and the most reasonable prices.
Good luck,
Paul
LukesVette Homepage
Veteran of Operation Iraqi Freedom
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Sorry for the bad link. Try this:
That should take you to his home page.
Steve
Former Member
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HARROD, OH - USA
Joined: 7/25/2003
Posts: 335
Vette(s): 1976 - L-48 Auto, A/C, AM/FM, Power Windows, Tilt Telescopic Wheel, Factory Aluminum Wheels, Inferno Red Matalic Custom paint with Black Leather Interior.
Stephen, Glad to hear your T/A's went well. I will be doing the same soon. On the steering play, like Ken said, check and adjust the steering box and look seriously at replacing your RAG gear. Those two took care of almost all of the play in my wheel. Good luck sir.
Stephen, I'm getting ready to remove my T/A's any vette advise or information on removing the bolts? Any information would be great. Thanks
sgm2004 AKA Guy
Guy, I had no trouble removing my bolts. It looks more difficult than it really is. Installing new bolts is only slightly tougher than removing the old ones. You just need good tools, adequate light, and the right position to see inside the area.
I have had a ticking noise in my TA ever since I installed it. I think it's in my parking brake, like a spring touching a flange bolt head. Don't know what I'm going to do yet. Have to patch an exhaust leak and get a state inspection before I do anything else.
Steve
Steve, well I'm at that point where they need to come out next. Looked them over a few minutes ago. They look tough though how were you able to get back inside to the bolt head? I think I will just cut them out with a hack saw (electric if I can find one to rent). Am I going in the wrong direction? Tried some different wrenches too a 3/4 will go on but will not grab right on the nut? Thanks for the info will keep you updated.
Guy
Lifetime MemberHOWELL, NJ - USA
Joined: 5/18/2004
Posts: 6812
Vette(s): 1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.
Guy,
IMHO - I would venture to say that over 80% of the C3 community that have removed/replaced their trailing arms did so using a Sawzall to slice the bolt on either side of the trailing arm (including yours truly). More often than not, coaxing the nuts off while maintaining a firm hold on the bolt on the interior side of the chassis is a great feat unless the body is off...
Good luck either way!
Paul
LukesVette Homepage
Veteran of Operation Iraqi Freedom
101st Airborne(AirAssault!)
God Bless America
Support Our Troops
in Forum: C3 Driveline Components
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