Hello everyone, I am pulling the trannsmission this weekend and I was wondering if I could get to the engine rear seal.  I have a small oil leak, but I am in no way ready to do an engine overhaul.  So I thought if I could change the rear seal, I would be adding some longevity to the current set up.

Also, I have a question about the clutch linkage.  All of the illustrations I have seen show an adjustment point on the clutch pedal rod with a fixed rod connecting the z-bar to the clutch fork.  In my case there is an adjustable rod in both locations.  Seems to me that this will make setting up a new clutch more difficult, but is it really a problem?

Everyone have a great weekend, it is going to be cold and rainy in NC.

JR

The rear main seal can only be changed by dropping the oil pan, and the rear main bearing cap.
The clutch linkage can be adjusted from either place, if it needs to be. If the pedal is OK now, you shouldn't need to adjust it , anyway.

Rear main bearing cap?  That sounds a little too much to do from under the car.  Any suggestions?

It can be done, it's just not exactly a Sat. morn job! Unless you plan on pulling the engine out, you'll have to do it from under the car!
You need to remove the steering linkage that goes across the car, under the pan, first. Then remove the pan after draining the oil, and removing the oil filter. Then take the oil pump off of the rear bearing cap, being carefull not to drop it. With the pump off, take the rear bearing cap bolts off, tap on the cap with a small rubber/plastic mallet to loosen it, and the take it off. Then, slightly loosen the rest of the main bearing bolts for the other caps. Don't take them all the way out, just loosen them enough that you can turn them by hand. This way, the crank will drop down just enough to make replacing the crank seal much easier.
The seal in the bearing cap is easy to change, just pop it out and replace it. The one still in the engine is a little tougher. With the bearing caps loosened, you can use a small wooden/plastic dowel, or something that will not scratch the crank, and push the seal out from one side. It will spin around the crank to the bottom, where you can grab it, and pull it all the way off.
To install the new seal in the engine, lubricate it very well with clean oil, or Vasaline. Be sure to position it in the right direction. Set it up on the crank in the same position you took the old one out. You have to push the seal against the crank very tight, so it will fit up between the crank and the block. Some seals come with a small , teflon/plastic "guide". Use it to put between the seal and the block, to protect the seal as you push it around the crank, to the top-side of the block. When the ends of the seal are flush with the edge of the block, where the cap bolts on, push it just a wee bit farther around, so that one side is sticking out, and the other side is up in the block. This will put the mating edges of the seals in a different position than the mating edges of the main cap. It will help keep it from leaking there.
Once you get the seals installed, the rest is just a reverse of taking it apart. Be sure to torque all of the main bearing cap bolts to spec.(don't have that right here, but I can go look it up) Put the oil pump back on, and make sure you line the drive rod up with the bottom of the distributor. Clean the surfaces of the pan and block , install new end seals, and gaskets, reinstall the pan, oil filter, steering linkage. Fill it with oil, and start er up! When you first start it, pay attention to the oil press. gauge. Make sure it shows pressure quickly. If not, turn it off! You may have not gotten the pump drive back in correctly. You can pull the distributor out to correct this, tho.

A long-winded explaination, eh? Give up yet?


wheew!! After all that, I forgot to say, if it ain't leaking to start with, why bother?! Then I re-read the post, and saw that it is leaking a bit. ( it's late, and time for meds! )Adams' Apple38758.874212963

Joel and Jr,
A long, long time ago I did a main crank bearing change on a '58 Chevy 348, laying on my back under the car. It was not a fun job.
After I got it all back together and running, I sold it to a friend at school.
I wouldn't do that again.

Don't they make some oil additives to slow/stop leaks?  I mean a complete overhaul with several performance upgrades is in the future, I think I can just live with this for a while.  It isn't a major leak anyway, I mean between leaks and consumption I do not use more than a quart between oil changes.  Thanks for the advice, today I am cutting off the exhaust, the last owner had it welded in with no clamps at all.  I found a place thatwill rebuild the tranny for $250.00 plus parts.  He is giving me a 12 month unlimited mileage warrenty. 

One last question, how do I measure the clutch?  I see that both 10.4 inch and 11 inch clutches were used.

 

Thanks,

JR

 

Measure the outer diameter of the clutch disc, itself. It may not be exactly 10.25", or 11', but it will be in that range. I agree about the leak. If it's not pouring out, or dripping every time you park, I'd just keep it full of oil until you do some other work that requires engine removal.

Joel, really appreciate it!  I am working hard to get it all together, but I think I am running out of time and money.  I will probably drive my truck to the gathering.

 

JR

Time and money?.........what's that?

The "Gathering" is a "people" thing......the cars are secondary to meeting and enjoying the fellowship of C3VR members. Bring it on!!!