Topic: TRANNY QUESTION.?
in Forum: C3 Driveline Components
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United Kingdom
Joined: 3/11/2007
Posts: 36
Vette(s): 72 convertible showcar. Featured in movies, tv and newspapers worldwide.
matching numbers. 350, 4 speed.
custom paint and stripes.
Always a crowd pleaser.!
Gettin ready to replace my 4 speed tranny after
rebuilding my 350. Anyone have photo diagrams
of this.? I'm not sure on procedure or actual
bearings, bushings etc.Also is there a filter screen that needs to be removed, cleaned. What fluid required.? Thanks.
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20219
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Are you rebuilding it, or just re-installing it?
The is no filter on the 4spd, and the recommended fluid is 75/90 wt gear lube.
The is no filter on the 4spd, and the recommended fluid is 75/90 wt gear lube.
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
Former Member
Send PM
United Kingdom
Joined: 3/11/2007
Posts: 36
Vette(s): 72 convertible showcar. Featured in movies, tv and newspapers worldwide.
matching numbers. 350, 4 speed.
custom paint and stripes.
Always a crowd pleaser.!
Thanks for reply. I'm rebuilding her. All I'm waitin for is the pilot bushing for the crank, then she goes back togather with the
trans.

Moderator
Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20219
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
The best thing I can recommend is the factory service manual. It has a section on rebuilding the Muncie.
They're not really all that complicated, but....(there always has to be a but...) getting the 140 or so needle bearings stacked back in the cluster gear can be frustrating if you've never done it before.
The trick here is to use Vaseline(you heard me...
), and put it in the fridge for a few hours first. Then smear big gobs of it inside the cluster to hold the needle bearings. If you put the cluster shaft down in the cluster, it helps keep everything lined up while installing the needles. Once you have all of the needles in the cluster, stick it in the freezer until you're ready to assemble the trans. The Vaseline will harden, and hold the needles in place as you slide the cluster shaft out, install the cluster into the trans, and slide the shaft back thru.
That's really the hardest part of building the Muncie/B-W.
The front input shaft nut takes a REALLY thin wrench to get it off/on, but I've always used a pipe wrench with no problems. Just be sure to smooth the teeth-marks on the nut after installing.
Mark the synchro assys on the front side, to make sure you get them back in the right position. I always use a pencil grinder, and mark the sleeve AND the hub at the same spot. That way, the sleeve/hub assy. will go back in the exact same way. They do "wear" in, and mate up over time, so it's best to keep them in the same mating position.
HTH
They're not really all that complicated, but....(there always has to be a but...) getting the 140 or so needle bearings stacked back in the cluster gear can be frustrating if you've never done it before.


The trick here is to use Vaseline(you heard me...

That's really the hardest part of building the Muncie/B-W.
The front input shaft nut takes a REALLY thin wrench to get it off/on, but I've always used a pipe wrench with no problems. Just be sure to smooth the teeth-marks on the nut after installing.
Mark the synchro assys on the front side, to make sure you get them back in the right position. I always use a pencil grinder, and mark the sleeve AND the hub at the same spot. That way, the sleeve/hub assy. will go back in the exact same way. They do "wear" in, and mate up over time, so it's best to keep them in the same mating position.
HTH

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
Former Member
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Mounds View, MN - USA
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Vette(s): 70 LT1 coupe, 69 350 HP coupe, 69 390HP 427 coupe, 71 LS5 convert, 85 coupe, 93 coupe
I always stand the transmission on its nose, so the bearings are
standing on end. That makes it less likely to knock them out of
place. As you are sliding it together, if it doesn't seem to go
the last little bit, you have probably dislodged a bearing. Take
it apart and be safe.
in Forum: C3 Driveline Components
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