Well I have been messing around on my vette this whole week and the next thing on my to do list is fix the trans. I was trying to adjust my TV cable on my 700r4 to change the shift timing on it all day but was getting little progress done. the problem is that the trans at WOT will shift at around 3500-4000 rpm and while cruising, it will keep dropping into overdrive too soon and bogs down the engine and wont down shift unless the throttle is WOT. With a 1500-6000 rpm cam you can see how this is a problem. I dont know enough about my transmission to try to fix it other than playing around with the tv cable, I suspect its the governer needing adjustment. Is this a labor intensive thing to pay a trans shop to do? Is it going to be expensive to pay someone to fix this problem? If someone can suggest the best course of action, I'll appreciate it. Thanks guys.

Thomas, there are several (many) diff. gov. assy for 700 trans. Depending on what gear ratio you have, you can change the upshift timing with them only so far. Then you get into changing out the springs inside the gov. Your car should have a gov. with small, thin weights. If it don't, you can get anouther gov., or get a kit to replace the ones you have. 'Transgo' and 'Superior' both offer these kits. I would recommend you go to a trans shop and have them check it out if you can't get the t.v. cable adjusted properly. Have someone help you, and hold the gas pedal hard all the way to the floor, while you adjust the cable. You should pull the cable housing AWAY from the carb, making the cable tight, (with the pedal to the floor), and set the adj. there. That is the best starting point. That should get the cable in the best position to allow the trans to up & downshift correctly. Then make SMALL adjustments from there. The basic rule of thumb for shift speed is : 1-2 shift @ 18mph (normal throttle), 2-3 shift @ 28mph, and the 3-4 shift @ 45-48mph. The trans MUST have a 2-1 kickdown @ low speeds (18-22mph). If not, the cable is not adj. right, is 'stretched', or there are other evil forces working here Remember, the tighter the cable, the later the shift. You don't want it so tight that is bottoms out before the carb is WOT, that's why you need a helper to hold the pedal. If adj the cable doesn't get it where you want, then you need to go with the gov mods. Let me know if this adj. procedure works for you. If you want, I can recommend a tranny shop anywhere in the U.S., that is ATSG or ATRA affiliated. Good luck!

I will be taking it to a trans shop in May, thats when I'll have the time to do this. I'll be taking it to a shop near Wheaton, IL 60187. If you know of a good shop to go around there I'll take your advice. Also I am not sure but I think my TCC is not disengaging right. When I am slowing down to a light and i get down to about 8 mph it will "thump" like some thing disengages. Also when I accellerate when its in 4th it will bog down and strains the motor to detonate alittle. I'll tell this all to the local trans shop to have them sort it out, but is changing springs in the governer a job requiring removing the trans? lots of hours of labor? how much money (ball park) should I allocate in my budjet for this job? I think once I get my trans working properly, I'll have one scary machine on my hands. Thanks for the help! Also I got a 3.55 gear with 255/50/r17 tires if you wanna know.Tumarr38430.9369328704

It's possible the TCC isn't disengaging right. I assume your trans has a 'hydraulic' lock-up system, meaning there's no 'lectrics involved. That one of the things we can do in order to make a 700 work in any vehicle. The only real disadvantage to this system is it will lock-up at a specific speed, no matter what gear it's in.(except 1st) Sometimes it may not unlock until it downshifts into 1st. This is a calibration issue, and can be solved easily enough, with the right spring in the lock-up valve.(in the valve body) You do not have to remove the trans to get to the gov. On your car, it might be a tight fit since it did'nt come that way, but still do-able. The gov is located on the driver side/rear of the unit, just ahead of the speed-o cable. It has a cover over it, about 3-3 1/2 inches in diameter. Some have a wire 'clip' to keep them on, some don't. Remove the clip (if present) and take a screwdriver and a small hammer(my favorite tools!) and knock the cover off. The gov will pull out of the case and spin a little as it comes out. Them you can change the weights and/or springs according to the directions for the kit you use. This is not brain surgery, and I believe anyone can do this job. Just take your time and pay attention. And most important......HAVE FUN!!!    
Money-wise, I think the gov 'calibration' kits are around $20-30, but I'm not sure. I'll check Monday when I get to the shop, and I'll get specific part #s for you, along with shop info for the area you are working with. The valve-body work involved with changing the l/u springs is a little more involved, as it is really a hit-or-miss, trial-and error type job, to get the converter to lock-up at a specific speed. Most of them go into l.u. around 50mph, but a lot depends on the calibration of the v.b. that's in the vehicle, so changing springs is not an exact science. I can send you some more detailed info Monday. Hang in there! Adams' Apple38430.9565625

Here is a link for the gov recal kit, along with other products for you. This is the ONLY products I use, with little exception. They work well, and are really easy to understand. Check it out!
http://www.superiortransmission.com/products/high_performanc e/the_shift_point_package.htm
They also have 4th gear l.u. setups, l.u. overrides(you decide when to apply l/u. with a switch OR 4th only), and lots of other goodies! I have most of the 700 stuff in my Suburban, including the 'SuperServo'. My truck will bark the tires in all gears, if I hammer it hard, but has a nice, clean shift @ normal throttle. Adams' Apple38431.344375