I'm replacing the u joints on the rear axle shafts and ran into a dilema. The U joints fit in the axle shafts fine, but won't fit in the axle flanges. They seem to be about 1/4" too long to pivot in. I've been to several auto parts stores with the same results. Are they supposed to be the same length on both ends? This is on my '69. I don't want to order out U joints just to find the same thing. This is really weird. Unfortunately, I didn't keep the old ones to compare to (lesson learned there). 

As usual thanks for the help,

Matt

All the u joints from the auto parts stores measure 3 5/8" cap to cap, I measured the inside of the grooves for the snap ring and got about 3 1/2". Strange...Anyone else run into this?

Matt

 

  

Being a pack-rat has it's advantages I know I have the old ones off of my car out in the garage somewhere, and I just went and looked, but I couldn't see them. If you don't get any other info to-nite, I'll spend some more time looking tommorrow. I'm sure mine were the same on both sides, but there were two diff. types of yoke/flanges, for small blocks and big blocks. Mine is small blk/4speed car.

Mine's a small block too. I'll let you know what I find out tomorrow.

Thanks,

Matt

I know this may sound like a stupid question, but did you at any point remove the caps - it is possible that a roller pin or 2 could be in the bottom of the caps. Also, not sure if I understand what you mean by pivot in. They should be held fairly straight as you put them into the yokes - that could be part of your problem also

Don't mean to insult you - just thoughts as to a possible answer to your dilemma

I've never seen universals with 2 different lenght axis'.

Good luck!

i think i may have an answer for you that is a little different..  i just did mine this past weekend..

the axle flanges will flex inward and make it seem like the u joints are too long but they arent..

two things you can do to help this..  first..  take the joint out and sand the inside of the axle flange holes lightly..  just to smooth them out and knock off any rough spots..  then wipe them down with a light coat of axle grease..

this fixed one of mine..  the other still wouldnt fully seat. so i put the joint in a 6" bench vise..  i used a socket on each side of the joint to offset it from the flange..  then i used a long punch to push the flange out.  the vise, and sockets keep the joint immobilized.  you have to pass the punch in between the joint and shaft and then smack it with an adjustment tool.

this slid the flange end out and then i put in the lock..  those flanges arent very sturdy when they arent bolted down to something.  Im 99.9944% certain that this is your problem.

cthulhu38408.8804861111

Ben,

That sounds exactly like the problem I have! I'll give 'er a try.

Thanks Guys,

Matt

did that fix it ?

Ben,

That fixed it! Well, one of them, the other was too far sprung so I got another one. Thanks for the good advice, I was really pulling my hair out with that one.

Matt

Just for future reference when you guys are doing u-joins on the 1/2 shafts. You have to support the flange. You can a couple different things to support it. (1) you can fab up a metal plate drill 4 holes and secure the plate to the 1/2 shaft flange. (2) You can remove your spindle flange and bolt it to the 1/2 shaft flange. Obviously #2 is the easiest and cheapest way. Either way you must remove and install the u-joints w/something behind the 1/2 shaft flange.

If your flange is bent all you have to do is go into your closet and get a metal coat hanger. Cut 2 small piece, 1/2" to 1". Than stick a piece on each side of the flange, in between the 2 flanges, and tighten all 4 bolts. This will bow the flange the opposite way and make the u-joints go in much easier.

One last thing I forgot to mention. If you use your spindle flange remember when you put it back onto the spindle that you torque it to 100 ft/lb. If the cotter pin hole doesn't match up, got tighter. Do not loosen it.

Dan
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