There is a passage in Dave McClellan's book on u-joints I always thought was interesting. While testing driveline components for the "new" C4 gen cars, they were having issues with u-joint failures. In the end, they discovered that the grease seals were allowing moisture into the joints, and then corrosion took over fairly quickly, then the joints would fail. The solution was longer seals made from better materials. The use of grease-able joints was never explored or considered.
Everyone has their own personal theories on what works best. In a lot of cases, the joints with the holes thru them are not an issue. In reality, 99% of people with grease-able joints either never actually grease them, or they overdo it, and pop the seals.
It's really 6 one way, 1/2 dozen the other....I say tamater, you say tomater...

After much research on the aforementioned subject (as I sit here stroking the new whiskers on my chinny chin chin), I've replaced all six with solid SPICERs.    Found the zerk type were prone to over lubing (thus poping the seal) and WEAKER than the solid joints.  Have had no problems.  Price was not a big deal.

I agree that price between the two really isn't a big deal..I will look for the old joint that was bent..it wasn't an original part so I am not sure if I kept it..if I did I will see if I can find the bad spot in it..I don't think mine were on long enough to fail from wear or water..when I first got the car it shifted pretty hard..not so much now..since the binding is gone now I have to replace the others also then I will feel better driving it..interesting history Joel..
Rich