All of your electrical issues sound like bad or missing ground connections, except for the head light, it is probably a bad bulb as the high and low beam share the ground. Have you found all the harness ground attaching points? They may just need to be cleaned if still connected to the frame.

Any type of media blasting can be a nightmare to completely remove all of the residue. It will find its way into every crack and crevice and cause problems. I had a 57 truck soda blasted and for years it kept falling out of places. All of the instruments and switches were full of it and had to be cleaned or replaced. Never again, now all paint is removed with sand paper. Very labor intensive but overall it is less work than chasing problems for years after.
I have also tried paint strippers and again it seeps into cracks and can ruin new paint if it is not all neutralized before painting.

How right you are.

I love my power probe..it works ok on new cars...it is easy to let the smoke out on them though..I can't think of a better tool on an older car to use for electrical problems..they are much more forgiving if you apply power to the smoke wire!
Rich

I haven't figured out all the things the power probe will do as of now, but I was now able to get the horn working, and the brake lights. So tomorrow it is on to the fuel gauge. Plus my battery gauage on the 1968 hasn't worked in a long time, so I will be checking this out too with the power probe.

I guess the question is do you have an amp gauge or volt gauge? My stock gauge is amp..I have an internally regulated alternator now..the stock one is external..if you have the stock setup ..external..then check the regulator on the fender..if you have a internal style then the amp gauge won't work..as mine doesn't work..I need to switch to a volt style gauge..I have the GM manual for the 69-70..it may be the same for the 68 if you need copies of the ETM side..
Rich

Okay, I have been able to fix the lights , turn signals, brake lights, horn, high low beam lights, and the fuel gauge that was pegged out, the courtesy lights now work too. 

An amp gauge does not require a ground. It is measuring current thru it. So it is basically installed in-line on the battery cable(alternator, actually, in this case). An amp gauge must have current going thru it for it to work. It will NOT work with voltage. So basically, the way it should be wired is, the large red wire from the alt will go to one side of the amp gauge, and the other side of the amp gauge continues on to the battery. That's a simple explanation of who it is wired, since it is not usually a direct route from one to the other. You have a regulator and fuse box in there, too.
When you replaced you alternator, if it plugged in to the wiring connector on the car without any modifications, then it is prolly the correct type alt for the car.

By the way, how do you like the 1968 Corvette?  Not many people at the Corvette shows like them, they seem to be the "Rodney Dangerfield" of Corvettes.  Personally I love the fact that it is unique in so many ways.

First off, it's great to see so much good tech info and support for the 68 crowd. I do think the days of "no respect" may be behind us. Most 68's that are still out there have been sorted out and they do have significance IMHO. They are the first year of a truly iconic design. They also happen to be the last year for the 327, a truly iconic engine. I love my 68, although it's turned out to be a much greater investment than I ever thought, but I wouldn't trade the experience for anything. I live in Southern California and I participate in the majority of car shows and drive ins and have only seen 3 or 4 68's in 4 years.  There are a lot more 69- 72's out there (maybe six times as much) so I do think the 68 is somewhat rare. I drive my car at least 50 miles a week and as we all know the older they get the more expensive that is. But the return is pure joy.
Best to C3VR board this holiday season.
John Pratt

Hi John..I am glad to hear another owner as everyone here does appreciate their car..I have seen a bunch of 68 model years around here..I do not think they are a Rodney D car at all..I have fun seeing them as they have a bunch of differences to my late year 69..
Rich

So if I unplug the black wire behind the gauge that goes through the fuse box and splits with one wire going to the solenoid and the other to the horn relay and over to the regulator and on to the  alternator. Then unpug the black and white wire behind the gauge that also goes to the horn relay.