Topic: 70 Power Window Repair
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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I have not done this in a long time so I need a refresher.
I have the interior and wiring harnesses out of the car with the battery disconnected.
If memory serves me can I simply run a wire from the positve battery terminal to either of the two contacts on the motor (depending whether I want the window to go up or down) as long as I have the motor grounded?
I have a broken regulator on the drivers side and I know I need to move it up and then down to a certain position to get it out.
Also, can I remove and replace the motor without removing the entire regulator assembly without a problem aligning the motor to the gear? My passenger side regulator is okay but the motor needs to be rebuilt.
Bill
I have the interior and wiring harnesses out of the car with the battery disconnected.
If memory serves me can I simply run a wire from the positve battery terminal to either of the two contacts on the motor (depending whether I want the window to go up or down) as long as I have the motor grounded?
I have a broken regulator on the drivers side and I know I need to move it up and then down to a certain position to get it out.
Also, can I remove and replace the motor without removing the entire regulator assembly without a problem aligning the motor to the gear? My passenger side regulator is okay but the motor needs to be rebuilt.
Bill
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There are two terminals on the power window motor. Connect a power to one, and a ground to the other to make the window go one way, reverse the wires to make it go the other way.
Ken Styer
Ken Styer
In regards to replacing the motor without removing the regulator from the door:
Not possible in my opinion. When you unbolt the motor from the regulator (in the small space inside that door that would be quite a feat in itself!) the spring will extend the window all the way up, possibly removing a finger on the way. Kinda dangerous, that and there is a bushing that needs to be installed between the small gear on the motor and the mounting point on the regulator and it would be impossible to locate that correctly.
I had to replace a regulator in my driver's door and I found that the easiest way to get the regulator out was to remove the top channel and pull it out of the top of the door, then slide the regulator off the middle channel and out of the bottom of the door. Its the easiest way I found. There are two bolts to remove, and then voila! It goes back in easy, too. Out and back in in 30 min or less, but your milage may vary...
Don't forget to run a bolt thru the hole in the regulator before you remove the motor!
If any of the above isn't clear, let me know and I'll be more specific.
Not possible in my opinion. When you unbolt the motor from the regulator (in the small space inside that door that would be quite a feat in itself!) the spring will extend the window all the way up, possibly removing a finger on the way. Kinda dangerous, that and there is a bushing that needs to be installed between the small gear on the motor and the mounting point on the regulator and it would be impossible to locate that correctly.
I had to replace a regulator in my driver's door and I found that the easiest way to get the regulator out was to remove the top channel and pull it out of the top of the door, then slide the regulator off the middle channel and out of the bottom of the door. Its the easiest way I found. There are two bolts to remove, and then voila! It goes back in easy, too. Out and back in in 30 min or less, but your milage may vary...

Don't forget to run a bolt thru the hole in the regulator before you remove the motor!
If any of the above isn't clear, let me know and I'll be more specific.
It was ot as bad as I feared. I got the complete assembly out intact.
What do u think about welding the broken bracket back on versus replacing the whole regulator?
What do u think about welding the broken bracket back on versus replacing the whole regulator?
The bracket on the regulator that attaches to the door near the bottom right corner.
The break is clean and I will be able to weld it back on. Finally a repair that won't cost an arm and a leg! lol :)
Thanks!

The break is clean and I will be able to weld it back on. Finally a repair that won't cost an arm and a leg! lol :)
Thanks!

If the weld doesn't turn out to be easy that bracket is for sale at Ecklers and Mid America for $15.99
http://www.madvet.com/shop?frame=4.1540
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=33027&dept%5Fid=1673&mscssid=VRWRDAGLVPBM9GTX3UJPDH2JMHBJFFME
http://www.madvet.com/shop?frame=4.1540
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=33027&dept%5Fid=1673&mscssid=VRWRDAGLVPBM9GTX3UJPDH2JMHBJFFME

Poquoson, VA - USA
Joined: 11/20/2004
Posts: 1023
Vette(s): 73 Conv, Blue-Green/White Top - 454, M21 - Dark Saddle Leather, Power Windows, A/C, Tilt/Tele, AM/FM St. (orig. and sounds like it too).#2 -- 2007 Coupe,3 LT package, Z51 option, Victory Red, Ebony Int. Clear Top.
[QUOTE=Contrail]In regards to replacing the motor without removing the regulator from the door:
Don't forget to run a bolt thru the hole in the regulator before you remove the motor!
If any of the above isn't clear, let me know and I'll be more specific.[/QUOTE]
Is it easy to see where to put that bolt? Will it spring up afte removing the regulator or removing the motor?
Ray
Lifetime Member #86
USN 1966-1970
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Featured in Corvette Enthusiast Aug 2007 "Shark Attack"
Blue Green *** 454,4 Spd, Dark Saddle Leather, A/C, AM-FM St. (orig), PW, Tilt -Tele Wheel"

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USN 1966-1970
WestPac 67-68 Tet I&II
Featured in Corvette Enthusiast Aug 2007 "Shark Attack"
Blue Green *** 454,4 Spd, Dark Saddle Leather, A/C, AM-FM St. (orig), PW, Tilt -Tele Wheel"

(click to see a bigger image)
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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