My 74 has not seen much action lately, but we drove it 6 hours on Friday to a show in IA. It been doing fine (other than not wanting to start when it got hot one - turned over great, but wouldn't stay running). Tonight after sitting for two hours (after running maybe 15 minutes), when I turned the key, I heard a click then nothing. For a few moments, I couldn't even get it out of reverse (4 speed) but it eventually gave. But still no power. I even noticed the clock stopped (yes, it usually works). Took the battery out and Auto Zone called it "good" at 94%. Bought an ignition switch, but by the time we got back to the car, it was dark and we decided to wait until morning to try anything. Other thoughts as to what the issue could be?

just remember to check the easy things first before buying the parts especially the battery cables.  Learned the hard way on that one, just cause they look good doesn't mean they are

Anytime you here a "click", then nothing while trying to start, check to see if ANY of the lights light up...headlights, turn sigs, etc. If nothing lights up, you have a battery connection issue, either at the battery itself, at the starter, or a ground issue. Since this seems to happen while hot, I would be looking at the starter connections first.
That "click" is the starter solenoid trying to engage....this pulls a LOT of amperage. If there is a bad/loose connection anywhere, the high amp draw will kill whatever small connection there was at that connection, and then you get nothing. High amps also causes high heat at the "bad" connection....once it cools back down, it might make a good connection next time you attempt to start, might not. A bad starter solenoid might keep it from cranking, but it wouldn't kill the entire electrical system. A bad ignition switch will not keep the headlights from working, either, but a bad connection at the batt or starter will. If you have good lights, but no crank/start, then you can check the gin switch and stuff, but remember there are also several "fuse links" in the system that can pop at any time.
 Before going thru the hassle of changing the ign switch, I would first put a voltmeter/multimeter on the "S" terminal on the solenoid, then turn the key to "Start"(clutch pedal DOWN). If you see battery voltage on that terminal, the ign switch is working. Hit the key several times to make sure it works consistently, and if it does, you can move on to check other things. If no voltage at the S terminal, check the clutch switch next, and then the ign switch. ALL of these tests need battery voltage to work to begin with, so make sure your batt connections are solid FIRST.

|UPDATED|8/28/2016 8:47:08 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Didn't have any testers or meters, but we replaced the ignition switch and that seemed to do the trick. Didn't try the headlights when it was dead, but neither the clock nor the radio worked before and both were working once the switch was in.