Topic: Automatic Windows do not work
in Forum: C3 Electrical

My windows used to go up and down on both sides. I decided to replace the door hinge pins on both doors. As a safety precaution I decided to roll the window down to protect the glass when I took the door off.
I could not get the window to go down. Now it worked a couple of weeks ago along with the door locks.
This is what I have found so far. The door lock will not work either side. The window switches are good as I switched them around and left one did work on the right hand door.
I have 11.5 volts on the right hand door and it works just fine. I have 10 volts on the left had door and it does not work. The voltage measurement was made at the motor connector with the motor disconnected from it. That kind of bugs me as the circuit for both windows are mirrors of each other. The motor case are grounded to the main body on both doors.
I ohm‘d out the motors and there is a difference in the readings but it is real hard to measure residence in a motor as the are not suppose to have a lot.
I really do not want to pull the motor and bench test if I do not have too. Has anyone had something similar happen to them and what did they do.
The only good news is decided to replace the dash lights as I only had a couple working and I found a great place to purchase lights. See my other post on that if you are interested in getting lights for $0.46 for two instead of paying $3.

That is a great tip. That would explain the difference in voltage. Unfortunately it looks like an ugly problem to find.

Moderator

Sounds like you may have a broken/damaged wire in the harness, where it passes from the door to the cowl. There is a rubber sheathing there. You may have also lost the ground to the door...Could simply be a corroded connector.
I'd start by making sure the motor itself is capable of working, by jumpering 12v to it. If it works like that, then you'll just need to start tracing the harness from the door to the switch.

I just pulled up the wiring diagram...it appears that your winders are grounded to the door frame itself, and the 12v power is simply switched from one terminal to the other.
Soooo....on the driver side, your connector should have a dark blue wire, which is "Up", and a brown wire which is "down". The "up/down" function comes from the switch, so if you have the switch pressed for "Up", the dark blue wire should have power, and switch pressed for "down", the brown wire should have power.
For the pass side, the only difference is the wire colors...tan wire "Up', light blue wire "down".
At the switches them selves, there is a pink wire, that is 12v power to the winder motors, but it only passes thru the switch when you have it pressed up or down. Make sure you have a solid 12v at the switch(s) first. If it is good there, then check it at the motor connector, with the connector un-plugged. You should have the same voltage at each point. If not, you have a connector issue, or a wire that is prolly hangin by a thread somewhere.
greatpumpkinls5 is right...you may show 12v with the meter, but once you put a load on the circuit, that 12v may go bye-bye.
Joel Adams
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