Topic: Battery Drain
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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Hey Folks,
The battery on my '82 is being drained for some reason. 
I just put a new battery...started and ran fine. Went to start it a couple days later...dead as a doorknob.
I ruled out the obvious reasons (e.g., left lights on, key on, etc.)...but wondering now what else it could be.
I ruled out the obvious reasons (e.g., left lights on, key on, etc.)...but wondering now what else it could be.I've got a pretty hyped up stereo system in it...with a couple of amps and subwoofer...but they're not powered when the car's off, so that wouldn't be the problem would it? I unhooked them last night (just in case)....jumped it off...and recharged the battery. So, I'm curious when I go back to it tonight to see if it's still being drained.
Any ideas would be appreciated!
Thanks,
JSGarner
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here is a link to a check for batterry drain problems
Hey Folks!
I have good news 
and bad news regarding the battery drain that was occurring on my '82.
and bad news regarding the battery drain that was occurring on my '82.The good news is...thanks to RRaider1 and his link to track down battery drains, I was able to trace my problem to the "Pwr Accy" Circuit Breaker. With the circuit breaker inserted, it was pulling 6-7 amps (no wonder the battery was dying overnight, huh?). Removing the circuit breaker, the drain was less than 1 amp. Woo Hoo! 
The bad news is...I have no clue what to do now! 
I went and purchased a replacement for the 30 Amp circuit breaker hoping that would do the trick. No go. New circuit breaker in...6-7 amp drain...out, 1 amp drain.
I went and purchased a replacement for the 30 Amp circuit breaker hoping that would do the trick. No go. New circuit breaker in...6-7 amp drain...out, 1 amp drain.Researching this circuit breaker in my manuals, etc., it seems to be connected to the Power Seats, but I'm not sure.
Before I screw something up, I knew I needed to consult my C3VR's for the help I need.
HELP! What do I do now!
Thanks!
JSGarner
Former Member
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Frederick, MD - USA
Joined: 9/8/2003
Posts: 3398
Vette(s): 1969 convertible L71 427/435 4-speed black interior
Check and see if your courtesy lights are going out within 15-30 seconds. It's not at all uncommon for the light timer to go bad and leave the courtesy lights on, or even go on at odd times all by themselves.
That happened to the '78 I owned. I couldn't figure out what the battery drain problem was until about 3AM on night I saw the interior lights on the the car for no reason.
If that's the case, the timer is orange in color and should be located behind your glove box. They're no longer available new but reproductions are sold through most of the repro houses, but they're not inexpensive.
That happened to the '78 I owned. I couldn't figure out what the battery drain problem was until about 3AM on night I saw the interior lights on the the car for no reason.
If that's the case, the timer is orange in color and should be located behind your glove box. They're no longer available new but reproductions are sold through most of the repro houses, but they're not inexpensive.
Lifetime MemberGreensburg, IN - USA
Joined: 9/24/2003
Posts: 5188
Vette(s): Previous: 1984 Silver / Charcoal Coupe, 1988 Maroon Coupe / 1989 Artic White Coupe / 2001 Speedway White Roadster / Present:1976 Stingray Black / Black, Auto, 350 slightly modified (355 hp) Luxor Wires Redline Tires. / 1989 Roadster Bright Red...
Is all radio equipment connected to the accessory jack of your fuse block? Without testing each accessory circuit I would take a guess and start there if your problem occurred after a recent installation.
Thanks Gunslinger and Tux!
Unfortunately, it's neither the courtesy lights (going out/staying out on schedule) or any radio equipment (unhooked all that to rule that out).
Thanks for the feedback though!!!
JSGarner
Take a look at a wiring diagram. The breaker is the supply to a circuit and subcircuits. By pulling it, you know problem is in that circuit, somewhere.
Once you look at the wiring diagram and identify everything in that circuit, start disconnecting them one at a time until the amp draw goes away. Then you have located the bad part. If everything is disconnected and the draw is still there, one of the wires is shorting, but it's not a dead short or the breaker would keep tripping over and over. A spot with corrosion can cause this, but do the disconnect first.
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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