Took my 77 out for a spin and stopped as a store to pick up some goods.  When I came out all I got was clicking.  I waited a few minutes and rolled back and it started.  I have a new starter that I purchased a year ago but my mechanic said the clicking could come from a low battery.  (Very possible.  It went dead last winter and had to be recharged and I had trouble one other time when it really slowed down before it caught.  I had an intake and carb replaced this spring plus complete plugs, wires, tuneup, grease and oil and fluids checked so I don't believe it needs a tuneup)  I am told GM traditionally put lowered batteries in their vehicles.  Is this also true of their corvettes?  What would be a good battery power wise to replace the current battery with.  I do not know how old the battery is.  Looking for information in case that is the problem.

Thanks in advance

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A WORK IN PROGRESS

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L82vette77, I can sympathize (and maybe add some helpful info as well).

I'd had my '96 for just about exactly 5 years when the battery went
utterly, completely dead one day, for no apparent reason. And it couldn't
be revived; not by recharging, not by jump starting. I've had experience
with all sorts of motorized vehicles in my life, from scooters to boats, and
I'd never had what I would regard as a relatively new battery go just plain
dead like that.

The car had to be towed to the dealer--and he told me that with today's
batteries, five years is the absolute outside limit. And when they go bad,
they really do go totally bad, like mine did.

When I got our '78 a few months ago, it had what appeared to be a pretty
new Interstate battery in it. But it wouldn't hold a charge. So I swapped it
out for a new Sears DieHard, which is the brand I've used in many other
vehicles, with no problems at all, and which I recommend (I know it's
made for Sears by another manufacturer, but I don't know which one, so I
can't refer you to its twin under another brand name.)

So that would be my advice: buy the best new battery you can afford
(mine was about $90, if I remember correctly), and plan on replacing it
before the five year anniversary!

Only other thought is--could it be that the battery is OK, but the solenoid
is bad?

A similar thing happened to me last month with my '69. I was leaving a car show and stopped to raise the top due to it starting to rain. I turned the key, it clicked then nothing. Never a hint of a problem prior to that. The battery was nearly six years old by the date code it had on it so I figured it was time. A couple of guys pushed me and I popped the clutch and got it started to get me home.

How strong a battery depends on your needs. If you intend to keep the car for a long time, get a really good one. I bought an Optima Red Top at Costco...cost like $99. You can buy a good but less capable battery for half that at WalMart or someplace similar. There's lots of good battery makes...Interstate is one. Just look for the CCA ratings...Cold Cranking Amps. The higher the CCA rating the stronger the battery and likely a longer warranty. It's generally recommended you buy a battery with at least one cold cranking amp per cubic inch of engine...even more for lots of accessories or severe service use.

Ok... back to battery basics 101 ;)

First off, when replacing a battery, one should take a look at the time of year and typical climate you might incounter.. Higher CCA doesn't equate to a better/longer lasting battery.  We service 400 or so dealers with batteries,  along with some major auto dealerships(Nissan,Honda,Toyota etc)  and (my prime example) Federal Express... some paper pushing 'person' at FedEx made a deal with our corporate for our highest CCA battery, which, if we were in Minnesota, fine.. but here in southern Tennessee... well, lets just say we get back several "burnt up" batteries from them... Optima's are good, and, if you are going to "store" your car over the winter, it might be a better choice... otherwise,  get a middle of the road CCA battery.. not a 1000 CCA or a 400 CCA...but somewhere in the middle.  They tend to hold up better in the hot summers,  and still have enough in the colder winters...  (yeah, i work for Interstate Batteries...and by the way, the Sears Diehard batteries and Wal-Mart batteries, as well as our(Interstate) batteries are from the same manufacturer...soo, mainly you are buying a name and a warranty) :)

 

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StingrayJim
NCM Lifetime Member #1936

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While you might actually need a batt., I would check the other things, like the above mentioned starter solenoid, before condemning the batt.
Last summer, I displayed my '74 at the Texas State Fair, one of the few outings it goes on. When it was time to leave for the day, the dad-burn thing wouldn't start. No click, nothing.
Turned out to be the quick-disconnet switch I have. Had a small amount of corrosion on it, but it was just enough to keep it from making contact. I wound up just taking the thing off, and the car started fine.

Check some of the other things before replacing the batt. just for this. Adams' Apple38884.8323726852

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Joel Adams
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Good info Jim. I learned something new today. Us "yankees" up here in the cold northeast always run the higher CCA batteries. I'll have to remember that info when I move south after I retire.

Joel, speaking of quick disconnect switches. Mine would not start other night. The darn knob worked itself loose from vibration. Kind of embarassing at the ice cream stand I might add. But that was the first thing I checked and saved myself from total humiliation. 

Sarge

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GEN III 5.7L "LS6" Engine swap
TKO500 5 spd.

Traditionally, lead acid batteries only last a finite time with normal driving habits i.e. discharge at starting and charging while you're driving.  If you don't drive your car that often or store in the winter, you need to keep your battery on a "trickle" charge to make it last longer.  I have the MGB and my Vette in the same garage and I've got a plug set up at the back of each car (connected to the battery).  When I get home after a drive, I pull in and attach my smart charger (which lives on the rafters in the garage), this initially gets the battery back up to full charge and then senses the correct voltage for a fully charged battery and changes to trickle and just keep them both topped up ready for the next drive.  Since I've been doing this I've never had a problem with batteries.  I also change them out every four to five years or what the manufacturer recommends.  Lead acid batteries don't last forever.

Oh, once a month, I check the electrolyte levels for good measure.

I went with an Optima Red Top after making sure that everything else was working OK. It's a little on the pricy side, but in my opion it was worth it.

Jim, thanks for the information! I went out to start the ol' black dog and the solidnoid gave a couple of clicks then the starter grunted an took off.
Battery was in the car when I got it about 4 years ago so I'm a guessin it's time.
I've always bought the higher cca batteries but maybe not this time since it's a summer only kinda thang car.
Based on your info I think I'm gonna check out my local Wally Mart since their everywhere and if'n I have trouble wit the battery chances are they will be near.

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I'm with Tux... Interstate and Optima batteries are the top of the line, but Wally World is EVERYWHERE when you need to swap one out on warranty on the road.

Dave

Wouldn't trade my Optima red top for anything. Left interior lights on for two weeks and killed it dead last year. Slow charged it and been doing fine ever since.      Ray