Topic: Buzzer driving me crazy
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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The ignition key buzzer is irritating and would like to silence but do not wish to lose the rear compartment light. The only way that I can turn off the buzzer, when working on the car, is to remove the front switch at the cowl on the drivers door. Also the horn relay comes on in parallel to the buzzer. Did I wire something wrong or missing a ground? I have checked
all grounds that I know of and added one at the front body bolt to frame. Any and all sugestions welcomed

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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
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#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Uh...perhaps you could disconnect the buzzer itself? Not sure where it is located on a '71, but ya oughta be able to find it by listening. Just a thought.
"Also the horn relay comes on in parallel to the buzzer."
HUH?
Do you mean the horn blows when you open the door with the key in the ign? That would definitely be something not wired properly.
On your car, the horn relay is also used as a junction point for several other systems to get 12v power. There may be something else happening here....more info is needed.
Adams' Apple 2007-08-20 09:51:31

"Also the horn relay comes on in parallel to the buzzer."
HUH?

On your car, the horn relay is also used as a junction point for several other systems to get 12v power. There may be something else happening here....more info is needed.

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
Adam, The horn doesn't blow but the relay makes a buzzing noise. I checked the wiring diagram and that seems OK. I have also found mistakes in my assembly wiring diagram before. It buzzes when the switch is released when the door opens . This happens with the key and
when the key is removed. Where is the buzzer located under dash exactly? I just pulled the left switch at the cowel and all noise stopped. The wire actually pulled out. I have another switch but don't wish to install
till I can figure out whats wrong. Does this sound familar to anyones
experiences?

Moderator
Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20214
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Not 100% sure where the buzzer is on a '71, but I think it's behind the tach...at least that's where it is on most of the early cars.
If the key in ign. buzzer still buzzes with the key not even in the ignition, the contacts on the switch are probably bent, or damaged in some way. There may also be short that could cause it, but the switch is a more common failure. Unfortunately, the switch is in the column, next to the key cylinder. The steering wheel has to be removed to get to it and replace/repair. The plastic that the switch is made of deteriorates over time, and can allow the contacts to touch when they shouldn't.
Does the horn relay also buzz anytime the key buzzer is buzzing, or does it only buzz with the key ON?
If the key in ign. buzzer still buzzes with the key not even in the ignition, the contacts on the switch are probably bent, or damaged in some way. There may also be short that could cause it, but the switch is a more common failure. Unfortunately, the switch is in the column, next to the key cylinder. The steering wheel has to be removed to get to it and replace/repair. The plastic that the switch is made of deteriorates over time, and can allow the contacts to touch when they shouldn't.
Does the horn relay also buzz anytime the key buzzer is buzzing, or does it only buzz with the key ON?
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
The horn relay comes on before the buzzer and sing together and they come on with or without the key. I have repaired electrics in chev trucks
but they were not tilt /tele columns. Should I leave this to a pro?
[QUOTE=74-454]I'm not really helpful here, but when I work on mine, I always disconnect the battery (I installed a quick disconnect so it takes 2 seconds).[/QUOTE]
What kind of disconnect do you use? I've been thru several and need a new one.
If you have a really long skinny screwdriver or punch and you know where you are going, you can get the plate that holds down the compression spring turned in the right place and punch thru the pot metal to reach the release bar for the lock. You have to have the key on (pull the ground off the battery first).
There is a vertical rectangle on the upper right side of the column that has a thin pot metal inlay cast into the part. You can puncture this easily, then depress the retainer bar on the lockset and pull on the lock as you depress this retainer (remember, key on). You can pull the lock out of the column, take the plastic thingie (technical term) with the long brass contacts off and throw it as far as you can. Make sure there is nothing in the hole (i.e. residue from the brass contact switch or other metal stuff).
Prior to reinserting, put a little graphite down the keyhole and slide the key in and out and work the cylinder left and right several times. Reinsert the lock assembly into the hole in the column. Turn the key to the on position and make sure the retainer bar reingages.
This beats the hell out of pulling the column down all the way if you can do it. Most of the cars you can go in thru the outer part of the retainer ring as it is scalloped. Once the key is in the on position, you can see the the vertical slot with a flashlight and can move the wheel to align the groove in the plate you want to use.
Good Luck!
Patrick, I use one similar to this one (or even maybe this exact one...).
Been thru several? There's a little play in it. In my case, I have to wiggle it a little bit to get it right and even then; if I wiggle the battery wire then the back light flashes. When driving, I guess there's not enough vibration to make it disconnect.
Are you having a similar problem or it's related to the plastic part?
On my 70 the buzzer is the horn relay. If you leave the key in the ignition the buzzer goes off if the door is open. On mine, I finally gave up on it. The switch in the column was gummed up with 35 years of gunk. I pulled the switch cleaned it up and the buzzer worked good for about 2 years. This past summer it started buzzing all the time again. I could wiggle the ignition switch and it would quit. I finally got tired of the buzzer and lifted the wire at the relay to kill the buzzer.
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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