Topic: Charging the battery
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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Red top in the Pony 3 years with no complaints. Ditto on the "other" fiberglass toy (marine diesel). Over 9 years and much abuse -
still going strong. When the 'vette needs one (likely soon) it'll be the same.
Attitude - The difference between ordeal and adventure.
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I still have the 'cannot start the car at the most inopportune time' gremlins!
nasajack 2010-06-21 05:36:56
I left home perfectly ok this past Saturday morning (19 June). Ran the A/C the entire time...having the car just come out of a new interior replacement. Drove up I-95 to Daytona (about an hours' driving time from my house). I stopped at the bank in Daytona for some quick cash from the ATM. I had to park the car because the machine was to high for me to reach
from a Corvette.

Once back at the car (the '82 Vette), it would not start...dead...no clicks, no warning...just a battery light that remained on at each attempt to start was made, then would go off when the key was returned to the off position. The car's meter showed no more than 10 to 11 amps...knowing this was not enough to start the car.
The battery is less than a year old (bought it new for the same reason I'm writing here) and the alternator in about a year and a half old (for the same reason here again). The belt is tight and correct...another words, the 'v' in the belt is correct for the alternator. The bolts holding in the battery cable to the side post are tight. I keep the battery on a tender as well when garaged. The park/neutral switch on the gear shift knob works fine too.
So, after a jump start, (started right up) I drove home.
This 'gremlin' picks its own time to act up...there is no indication of problems at any time while driving. I keep a set of cables in the car just in case.
Is this something I have to live with? Probably so. A perfectly working, starting, performing car most days, I find it odd I get this every now and then. Does any body else here experience the same sorta problem??
Since you have clean and tight connections at the battery start watching
the voltmeter more when driving and if it is under 12 volts when
running it may not start after it is shut off. It normally should be
13.5 - 14.2 while the engine is running.
10.5 volts is consider a dead battery by the manufacturers. If it starts when you leave your house it could be the the regulator in the alternator is intermittent. Sometimes allowing a charge and other times not. Since you keep it on a tender the battery charge would have lasted about the length of your drive before running down to the no start condition.
After checking the red wire connection and the plug in to make sure they are tight and clean I would have the alternator checked for output, or if it has a warranty just replace it.
10.5 volts is consider a dead battery by the manufacturers. If it starts when you leave your house it could be the the regulator in the alternator is intermittent. Sometimes allowing a charge and other times not. Since you keep it on a tender the battery charge would have lasted about the length of your drive before running down to the no start condition.
After checking the red wire connection and the plug in to make sure they are tight and clean I would have the alternator checked for output, or if it has a warranty just replace it.
When you have them test the Alt while in the car turn on the AC to see if any difference, you should also check the wires at the starter, not sure for the 82 but I believe the big red wire from the Alt goes to the starter and meets the positive wire from the battery
Since you have a '72, how do you have your Battery Tender hooked up? I worry about the wires from the cigarette lighter, but didn't see and alternative.
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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