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Topic: Choke problems-1980

in Forum: C3 Electrical

Choke problems-1980

Posted: 10/10/13 10:40am Message 1 of 9
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Vette(s): 1970 DB Green Convertible 1980 Silver Coupe
I'm having choke problems on my Wife's 80.  It started when the choke idiot light came on and stayed on.  The choke didn't appear to operate properly. (Continuous fast rich idle and the choke blade would not open.)

There is 1 wire connected to the choke, when unplugged, the dash light goes out.

The wire is constantly hot but I have not checked the voltage.

So, I replaced the choke mechanism with one I ordered thru NAPA but no change.

I pulled the choke back off the carb, Hooked up the hot wire and grounded the housing.  The coil does move like it is supposed to as it heats up.  When I reassemble it still doesn't work and the light stays on.

Do I need to add a ground to the engine or carb? (I noticed a lot of aftermarket chokes have 2 leads. Sometimes looking like 1 lead grounds to the housing.)

For now I removed the choke blade on the carb.  Any Ideas?

Jeff




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Re: Choke problems-1980

Posted: 10/10/13 11:53am Message 2 of 9
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Woodland, WA - USA
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Vette(s): 1977 T-Top,350,Auto Black Ruby Pearl,Steeroids R&P conversion
It looks like your issue is with the choke heater relay it should be located under center console center driver side. I believe it should time out to turn choke off the light staying on means it is not Denergizing which keeps the choke on.


Re: Choke problems-1980

Posted: 10/10/13 11:55am Message 3 of 9
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Re: Choke problems-1980

Posted: 10/10/13 12:02pm Message 4 of 9
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Re: Choke problems-1980

Posted: 10/10/13 7:50pm Message 5 of 9
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
The choke coil/assembly should have a small metal tab on it, where one of the rivets/screws holds it to the aluminuminum housing on the carb. If not, then the entire back side of the coil should be exposed, and that provides the ground...just depends on what type of coil assy you have. If it is not getting a good ground, it will not work.
IF the wire going to the coil has 12v with the key on(engine cold), then the coil should work, IF it is getting a good ground, and the coil itself is good. If there is 12v on the wire, the relay is at least coming on, so the relay, and fuse are good.





Joel Adams
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Re: Choke problems-1980

Posted: 10/10/13 9:51pm Message 6 of 9
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Woodland, WA - USA
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Didn't mean to make pictures so big, that's makes sense if the choke coil does not give the circuit a ground the relay would not time out.


Re: Choke problems-1980

Posted: 10/14/13 7:34pm Message 7 of 9
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Vette(s): 1970 DB Green Convertible 1980 Silver Coupe
Thank You,  I'll clean it up a bit, reassemble and give it a try a again.  I am curious where a timer comes into play? Is there a timer in this relay?


Re: Choke problems-1980

Posted: 10/14/13 7:49pm Message 8 of 9
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Not really a timer in the system. The relay should kick in when engine temp is cold to close the choke. Once engine temp is sufficient, the ECM should turn the relay off. After that, the normal engine heat, drawn thru the choke housing will keep it open.  Thumbs Up

Check to verify you have 12v AT the choke connector with the connector un-plugged(engine cold, key on). With it plugged in, you should see 0v IF the choke coil is good, and grounded. Once the engine is at operating temp, you should see 0v there at all times with the connector un-plugged.



Joel Adams
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Re: Choke problems-1980

Posted: 10/14/13 8:52pm Message 9 of 9
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Vette(s): 1977 T-Top,350,Auto Black Ruby Pearl,Steeroids R&P conversion
If the diagram above is correct for 1980 it does not go to the computer. Searching around I think I found the operation

When the ignition switch is turned on, voltage is supplied through the warning light to the choke heater. Under this condition, the light is illuminated and the high resistance in this bulb provides a very low current flow to the choke heater so the choke spring is not heated if the driver leaves the ignition switch on with a cold engine. With the ignition switch on, current also flows from the ignition switch through the relay winding and the alternator field to ground. This current flow keeps the relay contacts open.
Once the engine starts, the alternator supplies approximately 14 V to the entire electrical system. Under this condition, 14 V is supplied to both ends of the relay winding, and the current flow through the winding is stopped. Since this relay is normally closed, the contacts move to the closed position and supply full voltage to the choke heater to open the choke. When the choke relay contacts are closed, equal voltage is supplied to both sides of the choke warning light, and this light remains off. If a defect occurs in the system, such as a defective relay, current flows through the warning light and the choke heater to ground. This light is illuminated to inform the driver that a defect is present in the choke heater circuit.

What do you think Joel




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