Now that I'm pretty much finished with mechanical issues its time to move on to a new frontier (electrical) which I am at a loss for. Thanks to those members who have helped me in the past with other issues. One can read all the manuals, books, etc. but when you can communicate with others that have been there and done that it makes the passion for vettes more enjoyable.

#1. Black wire connected to frame with grounding strap by #1 body mount. Wire is appx 18-20 inches long and has a eyelet on the end???
#2. Two pronged connector coming out of steering column underneath dash in the area of the headlamp override switch???
#3. No highbeam Indicator light
No brake warning light
No right turn indicator arrow but left works. Same
when hazards are on.
#4. Rear defroster light not working so I really can't
tell if its working or not.
As for now everything else is working Although the tach
reads 10,000 when the engine is off.

Kenny78 said: Now that I'm pretty much finished with mechanical issues its time to move on to a new frontier (electrical) which I am at a loss for. Thanks to those members who have helped me in the past with other issues. One can read all the manuals, books, etc. but when you can communicate with others that have been there and done that it makes the passion for vettes more enjoyable. #1. Black wire connected to frame with grounding strap by #1 body mount. Wire is appx 18-20 inches long and has a eyelet on the end??? #2. Two pronged connector coming out of steering column underneath dash in the area of the headlamp override switch??? #3. No highbeam Indicator light No brake warning light No right turn indicator arrow but left works. Same when hazards are on. #4. Rear defroster light not working so I really can't tell if its working or not. As for now everything else is working Although the tach reads 10,000 when the engine is off.

#1 Should simply attach to block most likely at one of the starter mounting bolts. On my 72 it went from there to the engine crossmemeber

#2 Can't Help. although an Assembly manual with a wiring schematic should tell you what it is and what color wires should be going to it.

#3 I would invest in a Ac/DC volt meter and a Test light. You say that the dash lights don't "indicate", but does that coinside with what is happening on the outside at the turn signal lamps, etc. If they are working fine on the outside, then all that might be required is a bulb. A test light is a easy way to check these areas. Just remove the buld, insert the probe, and hit the turn signal. If the test light flashs then all thats wrong is you need a new bulb. If its nothing then you need to trace your way down the wire until you find current. All you can really do is start testing to find the source and that takes time and patience. Also check your fuse panel you may just have bad fuses that need to be replaced.

#4 Same as #3. Could be the light, but if you look at the wiring normally these lights most of the time they are not a direct function of whether the accessory is working or not.

Ken is the electrical god on this forum. In my own opinion of course. I know just enough about electrical systems to be dangerous and can normally figure it out given time. I normally only get shocked about twice a year which isn't bad thats how I gauge how good I am compared to other people.

I probably haven't explained myself quite clearly. As for:

#1 the black wire is on the left side of the frame by #1 body mount. It's long enough to reach up to the cruise control mechanism.
#3 All lights outside the vehicle are in proper working fashion. Are there tiny bulbs inside the dash between the tach and speedo that could be burned out or something more frustrating.

Behind the speedo/tach gauge cluster, there are 8-10 small bulbs that illuminate the dash cluster. There may also be some corrosion on your printed circuit causing the bulbs to not make good contact. You can see a picture of the dash printed circuit on ebay: Item number: 7921259137
I had to replace my printed circuit since it had breaks that were not repairable.

--Eric

So far, all good advice.
The black wire may either go to the engine, or look if you have cruise control. There should be a ground wire to one of the mounting bolts. See if the eyelet fits the mount bolt

All of the dash lights could be bulbs, or bad contacts, as already said.

Do you have a grid defroster, or blower? ( I forgot to look at the year, but I'm guessing a grid) If it is the grid, Take a test light or volt meter and touch one end to one side of the grid. Touch the other end to the other side. If it's on, you will light the light or show voltage.

Next, does the tach read normally when running? How about with the key on and the engine off? If both of those are okay, you don't have a problem. Many tachs have strange readings with the key off.

Last was #2. What are the colors of the wires at the two prong plug? Include the tracer colors and gauges, and let me know the general direction the wires go.

After reading your PM, it sounds like the cruise control wires going to the cruise switch on the turn signal lever. Those wire can be followed to go up the column.
The connector they plug into is a rectangular plastic box. But the lead is kind of long, and can be hard to find. It may not be very close. Look around the harness in the area where the brake switch wires go into the harness. You may find it that way.

|UPDATED|9/15/2004 5:11:32 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

I'm gonna bet the cruise is disconnected for a reason. Late '70's cruise controls were notorious for malfunctioning. I had one that actually floored the accelerator and wouldn't let off.

Kenny78 said: As for now everything else is working Although the tach reads 10,000 when the engine is off.

I believe this is normal on all engines with HEI ignition ('75 and later).As soon as you turn the key to the "on" position, it should go to zero.