Topic: Had to get towed tonight
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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daveo76 said: Thanks guys! Greg, I'll definitely keep you posted. Lesson #1 I've already posted: don't buy the knock-off Chinese HEI's. Even if this one is not the problem, it's still not a very well made part. I've always had concerns about things like the connectors on this unit - just not quality stuff. Sounds like you've made it past that lesson by buying the DUI - it does seem like a very good unit based on stuff I've read. And I think you're right that it will fit under the shielding, their FAQs say it has the same dims as stock. How come you haven't installed yet?
Bob, thanks. I may be taking you up on the loaner distributor. I'm also concerned about the voltage on the primary wire, especially the drop down to less than 10 when cranking. Could a bad engine ground cause that? Other thoughts?
Dave, I haven't installed the DUI because I haven't had an engine in it since August. I'm dropping a 383 in it next week and will be installing the DUI then. Good luck with your problem.
2012101154624r.jpg)

Build Date: May 7, 1975. 383 w/267 RWHP/310 RWTQ
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Adams' Apple said:
A battery that has been charged all night should have at LEAST 12.5 volts. Voltage under around 10v while cranking leans to the battery not being good. Doubt it is a ground problem, but you can check anyway. Also doubt the low voltage is causing it to die, and not run now, but the battery does need to be tested/replaced.
On the other hand...low voltage and electronics is a bad combo. If you can get another car up to it, and some jumper cables, you might give that a quick shot to see if the low voltage is keeping it from starting...
daveo76 said: After having the batt on trickle charge all night I'm up to 11.6 with key on Run and it goes down to about 9.5 while it's cranking.
A battery that has been charged all night should have at LEAST 12.5 volts. Voltage under around 10v while cranking leans to the battery not being good. Doubt it is a ground problem, but you can check anyway. Also doubt the low voltage is causing it to die, and not run now, but the battery does need to be tested/replaced.

On the other hand...low voltage and electronics is a bad combo. If you can get another car up to it, and some jumper cables, you might give that a quick shot to see if the low voltage is keeping it from starting...
I don't think there is a problem with the battery, but I didn't do enough checking last night and didn't give out enough info. Battery is new (this spring) from Costco. It has always cranked fast and always charged properly. Last night I did not check voltage at the battery only at the distributor hot lead. Tonight, battery is showing 12.76 at the terminals and now showing about 11.7 at the distributor with key at Run. Still drops down to 9.5 (at dist) while cranking. If batt was bad, I think cranking would have slowed down on Tuesday night quite a bit, considering the amount I did. (Checking for fuel problems, messing around with distributor and then trying again multiple times, etc.) It never slowed down. Reason I was asking about a bad ground is it seems like losing a volt between the battery and the dist seems like a lot. But I did check the engine ground tonight and it is all intact and the connections on both ends are tight. Does it seem like I'm losing too much between batt and dist?
danascar said: I used this company for my distributor on my 74. Seems to be a very well built unit and lifetime guarantees, and the best part very reasonable priced.
Dan, thanks for sharing this link. Seems like a pretty good unit and cool that it's made in North America. Good price, too. If the DUI unit that my friend had at one time doesn't work out I will definitely consider this one. One question: Do you have to use the cap that it comes with or will a standard HEI cap fit?

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That looks like a standard base HEI, with an Accell coil/cover. The stock GM HEI cap & rotor should bolt right on, if needed.
Joel Adams
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daveo76 said:
Dan, thanks for sharing this link. Seems like a pretty good unit and cool that it's made in North America. Good price, too. If the DUI unit that my friend had at one time doesn't work out I will definitely consider this one. One question: Do you have to use the cap that it comes with or will a standard HEI cap fit?
danascar said: I used this company for my distributor on my 74. Seems to be a very well built unit and lifetime guarantees, and the best part very reasonable priced.
Dan, thanks for sharing this link. Seems like a pretty good unit and cool that it's made in North America. Good price, too. If the DUI unit that my friend had at one time doesn't work out I will definitely consider this one. One question: Do you have to use the cap that it comes with or will a standard HEI cap fit?
Yes, as Joel said it is a stock style cap that you can use a stock style coil and cover with.


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DanT
Wow, am I embarrassed.
It's fuel, not spark. I checked again using Ben's method (thanks, Ben) and could see regular sparking on #4 while my son cranked. And then I put a little fuel down the throat and it started and run rough for a minute or two. I'm gonna be mad if I got it towed and it was just out of fuel. But I don't think so - only gone 155 miles on this tank, I've gone considerably more than that on a tank lately. Hmm, maybe trip meter died on me and I didn't notice..... But probably more likely the fuel pump?? My 9 year old daughter was riding with me at the time and she swears that the bump we heard (sounded like we drove over a loose man hole cover) is the source of the problem - we did hear it right before it died. Could it have been the fuel pump grenading on me? Do they ever have catastrophic failures that make a noise? I ruled out fuel at first for two reasons: 1) it died very suddenly and wouldn't run at all after that and 2) I could see and smell fuel squirting from the primaries when I was doing the parking lot diagnosis. Maybe it just wasn't getting enough to run?

Tomorrow I'll dump 5 gallons in the tank and see what happens. I guess next step after that is to pull the pump and take a look. Man I hope the fuel pump eccentric on the cam didn't round off on me....
I'm glad you found the reason for the problem Dave, Now to just find the culprit. :)
2012101154624r.jpg)

Build Date: May 7, 1975. 383 w/267 RWHP/310 RWTQ
you can take the line off the carb add a piece of hose if necessary. run it into a container (coffee can) have someone crank the engine to see if fuel is being pump by the fuel pump.
|UPDATED|10/27/2013 7:50:09 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
If you can check the pressure I think it is 7 to 9 psi .
If you would like some Help I will be available Mon. or some other evenings
|UPDATED|10/27/2013 7:50:09 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Had that happen to me once...it was the filter plugged inside the carb inlet.


202010261047r.jpg)
DanT
Yep, really embarrassed. Poured five gallons in the tank and the
thing started right up. Can't believe I didn't try that in the parking lot. But I know I saw fuel going into the primaries, just must not have been enough. $108 down the tubes. Oh well, never will make that mistake again.

The one positive benefit is I definitely have decided to upgrade that distributor now. I know it wasn't the main problem, but there is still something not right. It is missing now at medium RPM and I can kill the motor by just barely touching the cluster of red, black, yellow wires between the dist body and the coil. It's time for that guy to go. Thanks for the help with my inquiries, even though they weren't quite the right ones to be asking!
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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