Boatman Thanks! But I'm not sure what you mean regarding the spring. As you take the column apart is it goes (horn assembly) then (turn signal assembly) is it lower in the column after that?

If the shims were messed up, would it either keep the horn on all the time, or keep it from not working at all?
Glenn

The only spring in there, is the one that has the piece in it, going into the hole that goes down to the contact. All this on top. This spring can be adjusted by hand stretching it a little, or compressing. Insert back in, and it will be longer or shorter then for the arm to touch it when the horn is depressed.
To me, the shims will dictate how much pressure you have to depress the horn for contact. I started with 3, and now down to 2. If anyone needs a schematic of this, I may be able to burn one and set to e mail.
Boatman

oh, ok.. I thought you were talking about down deaper in the column. I know what you mean now. I never shimmed mine, maybe that was the issue.

I'll try it and let you know.
Thanks,
Glenn

Yeah if Im getting this right if the 90 degree contact doesnt hit the plunger (in the colunm) the horn doesnt work. When you press the button it completes the curiut and "beep". My service manual says it should be .10 clearance normlly but I think as long as its normally seperated and you can depress it and make it work it should be fine. Also I think you could just use washers instead of the shims, I dont really see why you would HAVE to have the shims
Glenn

I really appreciate all of the post on horn problems.  I have run into a succession of problems that I cannot seem to whip.

It first started as described by Tumarr above.  When ever I hit a bump, the horn would go blow.  If I removed the horn cap, no problem.  I could not solve the problem, so I replace the contact with a new unit from Ecklers.  I thought I was home free, installed the horn cap and the horns blow without being asked.  Again, if I remove the horn cap, the horns work just fine.  I presently have two shims between the contact and the spacer.  I am now running without a horn cap, but at least I have a horn.

Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Leo

 

It's been since the 70's since I had 1 apart but as I remember if the shims aren't placed just right when you replace the cap or if it's off just alittle it will cause the horns metal cage to make contact. Make sure everything is put back in place exactly as it was new when installing.
Most of this stuff was pretty generic inside. Corvette,Camaro, Vega all used the same wheel. I think the the guts were pretty much the same for alot of the Chevrolet wheels. You may be able to get this stuff from a wrecking yard for less if you can't get it in a timely manner from a parts supplier.

Tuxblacray,

Thank you for your reply.  I have tried to follow the parts explosion for the assembly and not made much progress. Unfortunatly, the horn had been worked on by the previous owner.  They did have the shims in the wrong position, under the lever ring.  Do you think it may be the lack of shims?  I have two now and if adding more may fix it, I would give it a try.

Leo

Here is a DIAGRAM of the column and horn assy, w/shim placement. Don't know if it helps, but here it be.

Adams' Apple,

Thank you.  I think the 74 diagram will help.  My 75 diagram did not show the .010 clearance measurement betweent the horn cap and the lever.

I will try building up the shims until I have the spacing specified.  I really appreciate your help.

Leo

Im not sure that it will fix it or not but it's worth a try. I never had to add additional shims. Joel's wheel is an older version from what I was refering to. Although as I suspected most of the componets are relative.