Topic: Hot start blues
in Forum: C3 Electrical

JEG'S Mini Starters | ||
![]() | ||
Hitachi Style Starters Heavy Duty Hitachi Starter The mini starter is smaller & usually used to start high compression engines, but stands up to the heat better & because of the smaller size allows for better air flow. Most places have them I just used Jegs as an example, but I did install this one on my car...no more heat problems...as I had the same problem you're experiencing Alan |
[QUOTE=Adams' Apple]I wouldn't use the wrap-around shield, either. It actually holds the heat in, once the starter gets hot. Make sure you have the factory heat shield on the starter, first. It's a shaped sheet metal piece that bolts onto the rear of the starter, and covers the side that is closest to the exhaust. Big blocks were notorious for having a problem when hot. Before condeming the starter, I'd suggest replacing the solenoid. It is what actually creates the no-start condition, 90% of the time. They are only about $15-20. But be sure you have the metal type heat shield on the starter, whether you replace the starter or not. It will save you a lot of headaches in the end. You could also wire up a remote solenoid, under the hood, that would eliminate this problem 100%. This set-up uses a "brand 'F'" starter solenoid, and I've NEVER seen a big block fail to start with it(for this problem, anyway!). If you want to keep the car 100% correct, this wouldn't do, but it is another way to fix it for good. [/QUOTE]
Can anyone give some more information on the factory heat shield? I found the two pieces (I think) in a box from the previous owner but I don't know how they fit back in the correct position. One is a curved piece the holes for mounting, and the other is a flat piece with a bend in it. Anyone know? Thanks!
L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

I just found the part that I have in my box. Here is a picture of it on ebay. This is the part that I trying to figure out how it attaches to the starter:
L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

The voltages should be the same with the original style or the mini starter.
Crossing the solenoid means jumping between the battery cable connector and the small solenoid activation terminal. This will cause the starter to operate. Just the same as supplying power to the small terminal with the purple wire. When you turn the key, you supply power to the purple wire.

walk into the parts department of your local Chevy dealer and ask for
a Selinoid spring part number (AcDelco) 1958679.... shopuld cost you about 5 bucks...
Then Just pull the original spring out of your starter and insert the new spring... END OF PROBLEM....
Honest I have been running this spring in my 72 76 & 79 for about 10 years now and never had the problem once since I replaced the spring...
my 72 and 79 and my 68 BB Chevelle all had the hot start problem UNTIL I changed out the spring... (looks and feels like the original..but it is weaker...hence required much less elecrticity to compress ...
One think I do know however....IF I got stuck like at a friends house I would just ask for a large glass of water...walk out to the car and pour it over the starter.....usually worked...if not I just used a second glass of water... I think 3 glasses is the most it ever took to cool down the started enough so the engine would fire up...
BTW...the Spring number came from a Sprint Car "Crew Cheif" at our local race track... SHE...was good looking and could turn a mean wrench... honestly SHE knew her cars....
Bob Griffiths
Bob
64,72 & 98 Corvette Ragtops
76 & 79 & qa 88 ANC Corvette Coupes
Click on any image for larger view!
Now I'm embarrased! I forgot all about that spring. Yes, it does help quite a lot.
It's been a lot of years from the last time I heard about that, or installed one.
