Topic: Hot start blues
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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Thanks, that's good info.
I won't get to it until later this week.
I did went to ACDelco yesterday and got a core replacement starter for 60$ (will get 20 back from my old).
What I will do, is replace that and before reconnecting, find the blown fuse link and follow your advises above.
I did not try all the accessories, but the back light went out and there was no click on the starter.
I'll take a picture, but I think I know what I did wrong; since one of the pin on the solenoid was shorter, I had to bend a little bit the one out of the starter (sorry for the lack of proper words). The bushing around it was totally dried and fell out. I can't remember exactly, but that could have been the metal-2-metal connection.
I think I had all my connections right.
I will find out when I remove the starter, it will probably be fried in that area.
Thank you very much for your info/support. I'll keep you posted.
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Lifetime MemberModerator
Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20214
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Check out the other post on "Starter problems", and you'll see..................
.......Some replacement solenoids have a short post for this that requires a 'spacer', and some have a long post to begin with. Supposedly, the long post is for the 'high torque' starters, due to the longer field windings
You're probably on the right track now. Hope you get it fixed!!!
BUT...if you do have that 'strap' shorted, it would only cause a problem as you're trying to start it, but it wouldn't spark just from hooking up the batt., as there is no juice to that terminal until you turn the key to "start". You might still have other gremlins 
Adams' Apple 38494.7286805556
.......Some replacement solenoids have a short post for this that requires a 'spacer', and some have a long post to begin with. Supposedly, the long post is for the 'high torque' starters, due to the longer field windings
You're probably on the right track now. Hope you get it fixed!!!
BUT...if you do have that 'strap' shorted, it would only cause a problem as you're trying to start it, but it wouldn't spark just from hooking up the batt., as there is no juice to that terminal until you turn the key to "start". You might still have other gremlins Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56 
My Link 
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
Thanks Adam, I have just read the other thread and I think I'm on the right track to find the problem. I will try what Ken suggested to find where the problem is.
Yesterday, I did a quick check on the battery and I was reading 12.62 volts.
Later this week, I'll trace the whole line to find where the problem is and ESPECIALLY making sure my ground reads zero after I get the new starter in.
I spoke with a guy this weekend who said I could use on compass to find a bad fusable link without removing the carpet. I'm not sure how to do that, as anybody did that before ?
You hold the compass up to the wiring harness. When there is power flow the electrical current creates a magnetic field which deflects the compass. No current no deflection. More current, more deflection. Yes it does work. An inductive amp gauge works better.
Keep in mind, it does not show broken wires, just lack of current flow. So no flow could mean you are before or after an open point in the circuit. That can include the circuit just being shut off. Other live circuits in the harness will make the compass respond as well.
Yes, the whole thing is shut; no lights, no horn,...
Last night, I checked the voltage at the battery again : 12.6
Then I disconnected it, and cleaned the battery ground (attached to the frame). There was a lot of dust. Dry mud looking dust. Came right off easily with a brush. I also changed all the fuses and clean the contacts over there.
This is where I am lost : I wanted to verify the voltage at the starter.
I have a mini digital voltage meter. I used the negative on the ground (the ground from the starter bracket to the body) and the positive on the battery terminal (big wire on to the solenoid). My reading is zero. I didn't have anybody to turn the key 
.
.Is this a good test or I just wasted my time ?
I also started tracing the positive battery cable and I think I did see the fusible link Adam mentioned. How do I test (and/or replace); just pull the wire out on each side of the rubberish black cylinder (fuse link).
I am still putting a new started (ACDelco remanufacture). But before I do, I am trying to get the light (and horn, windows...) back.
Really sounds like a fuse-link, but I am not sure of how to replace/test it with my volt meter.
I appreciate all of your inputs. I am really building knowledge here. This is all new to me but I am hooked!
Get the lastest issue (July 2005) of Car Craft. There's an article on electrical problems on vehicles from the 60's and 70's. The hot starter could range from high voltage drop to the soleniod overheated by the close exhaust pipe. They suggest ( I know this is blasphemy!!!) to by-pass the GM soleniod with a Ford soleniod. The Ford soleniod can be located anywhere on the firewall or fenderwell. This article is a great tool to have. I'm checking every circuit on my 70 Vette to make sure the required voltage drops are at their minimum.
Lifetime MemberModerator
Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20214
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
[QUOTE=74-454] This is where I am lost : I wanted to verify the voltage at the starter.
I have a mini digital voltage meter. I used the negative on the ground (the ground from the starter bracket to the body) and the positive on the battery terminal (big wire on to the solenoid). My reading is zero. I didn't have anybody to turn the key .
.If you have "0" volts at the large cable on the starter, you have a bad pos. batt. cable from the batt. to the starter. It should be hot (12V+) at all times, regardless of key on or off. Check it again, and make sure! Make sure, also, that your neg. cable is good from the frame to the engine block, as a bad ground conn. would give you a "0" reading, also.
Once you get voltage at the starter,(main cable) you can check the fuse links, but you have to have something to check!! All positive voltage for the vehicle comes off of that connection, so if there's no voltage at the starter, everything will be dead.
Check the fuse-links by testing on each side if the link for 12V+. You should have voltage on each of them on the starter side, even if the link is blown. If it's good, then you'll have voltage on both sides; if not, then just on the starter side. Peel back a small piece of the insulation to get at the wire for testing. Most of the time, you can tell if the link is blown by simply pulling on it. If the wire stretches, the link is blown. I know how frustrating this is, but you have to get voltage to the starter first, before checking anything else.
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
for all your good inputs and vetteish, I will make sure I get a copy of this article.