Topic: I have a hot battery post
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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Not actually the post. It is the wire connected to the pos post.
And it is only during a certain sequence.
I can drive all day and there is no problem.
If I drive with the headlights on, no problem.
The problem occurs if I shut the engine off without first turning the headlights off.
Then when I turn the lights off and try to start the engine so the lights will go down, it sounds like the battery is almost dead. If I am liucky, it will start.
I then put my finger on that wire attached to the positve post on the battery and it is smokin hot.
If I shut everything off, it cools down.
Is it common for this condition?
Is something shorting out?
How do I troubleshoot the problem?
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Duncanville, TX - USA
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
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The most obvious solution would be to turn the lights off first....
I'm not sure I unnerstand.
What yer sayin is, You're driving the car, and you park it, shut it down, THEN turn the lights off. THen you re-start the car, so the lights will go down, but it acts like it has a low battery then, and the pos cable gets hot? How long between turning the car off and re-starting are we talkin?
If you drive the car, turn the lights off first, then turn the ign off, and then re-start it, this doesn't happen?
Don't make a lick of sense to me, but I would certainly clean the batt terminals first, both pos and neg, as well as the ground cables under the seat, and from the frame to the engine block.
I'm not sure I unnerstand.
What yer sayin is, You're driving the car, and you park it, shut it down, THEN turn the lights off. THen you re-start the car, so the lights will go down, but it acts like it has a low battery then, and the pos cable gets hot? How long between turning the car off and re-starting are we talkin?
If you drive the car, turn the lights off first, then turn the ign off, and then re-start it, this doesn't happen?
Don't make a lick of sense to me, but I would certainly clean the batt terminals first, both pos and neg, as well as the ground cables under the seat, and from the frame to the engine block.
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56 
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Lifetime MemberDillsboro, IN - USA
Joined: 8/3/2003
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Vette(s): 1969-427/435hp T top Tri-power
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Hey Dave, after doing the items suggested by Joel i would check
electrical connections around the front of the engine. Sounds to me
like you have lost a ground and the circuit is doing what ever it has
to for the circuits completion. Since you and Terry had to work on the
car in Holland maybe something was taken off but not retightened
properly upon reinstall. I don't know if your engine ground is up front.
If you have a volt meter you could have some one start the car to lower
the lights and take a reading from the positive post to the engine
block and see if you have 12volts while doing this. Since you recently
had the top of the engine off check the wireing harness for cut or
pinched wires and plug connections for the lights. Good luck! Butch
Lifetime MemberHOWELL, NJ - USA
Joined: 5/18/2004
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Vette(s): 1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.
But the battery post itself is cool to the touch?
If it still happens after cleaning and tightening everything up - if your main battery cables are original and everything is fine when the car is running, sounds like you're running the lights under alternator power and possibly a bad cable/wire is loading up due to an internal break or a bad connection.
Hace you modified the charging system at all? Heavier amp alternator? When I did that, I almost fried my alternator wire and I had to run an 8 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery to take on the higher output....just some further things to look at...
Good luck Dave 
Paul
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HI GUYS!!!
Mine did the same thing and it did stop running, I have to same year. They put aluminum bat cable on it. Replace the main cables and the one ground buy the starter. Use copper cables and you should be fine.
Mine did the same thing and it did stop running, I have to same year. They put aluminum bat cable on it. Replace the main cables and the one ground buy the starter. Use copper cables and you should be fine.
[QUOTE=Adams' Apple]The most obvious solution would be to turn the lights off first....
I'm not sure I unnerstand.
What yer sayin is, You're driving the car, and you park it, shut it down, THEN turn the lights off. THen you re-start the car, so the lights will go down, but it acts like it has a low battery then, and the pos cable gets hot? How long between turning the car off and re-starting are we talkin?
If you drive the car, turn the lights off first, then turn the ign off, and then re-start it, this doesn't happen?
Don't make a lick of sense to me, but I would certainly clean the batt terminals first, both pos and neg, as well as the ground cables under the seat, and from the frame to the engine block.
[/QUOTE]
I'm not sure I unnerstand.
What yer sayin is, You're driving the car, and you park it, shut it down, THEN turn the lights off. THen you re-start the car, so the lights will go down, but it acts like it has a low battery then, and the pos cable gets hot? How long between turning the car off and re-starting are we talkin?
If you drive the car, turn the lights off first, then turn the ign off, and then re-start it, this doesn't happen?
Don't make a lick of sense to me, but I would certainly clean the batt terminals first, both pos and neg, as well as the ground cables under the seat, and from the frame to the engine block.
[/QUOTE]
PROBLEM SOLVED. (I hope)
As I am finding out, most of my problems have a simple answer.
As Joel suggested, check the batt terminals.
The wire connected to the pos post was getting hot.
Guess which wire was loose?
I actually saw a spark when starting the engine. See photo.
Thank God the battery didn't explode!!!
I removed the neg cable, took the pos cable off the battery, removed the pos cable and that red wire that was getting hot, reconnected everything nice and tight and now she starts like a $million.
No more hot wires.
No more sparks.
THANKS everyone.
I feel a whole lot better now.
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Lifetime MemberModerator
Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20214
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Yeah...it's a good thing it didn't explode back there. Glad ya got it handled, Dave!
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
Lifetime MemberHOWELL, NJ - USA
Joined: 5/18/2004
Posts: 6812
Vette(s): 1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.
That one coulda hurt!! 
Glad you straightened her out Dave!!
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I am new here and do not want to offend anyone, but from my experience of being a mechanic for over 40 years I suggest you buy new battery cables. Jiffy ends are good in an emergency situation but they will cause problems. It will be an area of corrosion and loose connections. Spend the money on a good set of battery cables and ground straps.
Since the placement of the battery is inside the vehicle an Optima would be the safest type to use. No hazardous gases = no explosion.
Just my opinion.
Since the placement of the battery is inside the vehicle an Optima would be the safest type to use. No hazardous gases = no explosion.
Just my opinion.
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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