Thanks for the help and info Mark, Joel, Anips, Ben and Ken, but it's still not starting. I used the screwdriver and got spark, I poured some gas in the carb-still no start, but I got a puff of fire. I used the test light and jumper wire on all info obtained and still nothing. When I tried it on the Module pick-up coil side I didn't hear anything and didn't even get a spark from the cap center. I changed the module again, and it still won't fire up I really want to thank you guys much for your info and help. I have to take a break

Might be time for a compression test!
Maybe the timming chain has jumped?
If it's got fuel, fire, & compression, all at the correct time, it's got to run! (Just anouther 'log on the fire' for ya!)
I'm sure we're all assuming that the dist. is installed correctly. Does it ever backfire, sputter, or pop?(other than when you dumped the gas down the carb!)

This a wierd one, old dist., new dist., gas down the carb, you got fuel, I'am pretty sure you got spark with a new dist., well maybe there is an air problem, after break take the air cleaner off, look at the choke flap, if it is completely closed that might be the problem, it should be open about 1/8 to 3/16" open to let air in, if closed the engine is not getting air, with all this cranking time the fuel bowl should be full, open the choke flap and work the throttle a couple of times to see if the accel. pump is working, if it is don't over work it when trying to start the motor, you might have gas fouled the plugs or flooded the engine, look at the plugs, if they are gas fouled replace them, check the choke flap and try it again, if the flap is closed hold it open a bit or stick a small screw driver against the flap to hold it open, make sure the screw driver DOESN'T INTERFEAR WITH THROTTLE OPERATION.

Adam, the only time it backfire was when I changed the module before when it shut off on me right as I was getting to my driveway. After that-that is when I changed the entire assembly. Anips I will stick a small screwdriver against the flap and see what happens. Thanks guys.

I Don't Freaking believe it the Vette started. I reset the engine to TDC again, and as I was about to put the dist. assembly back in, I said "let me put the old one back in first and check it out" So I put the old one back in with the new module, coil and dist, and it freaking started. Either the new assembly that I purchased from the store was faulty or the salesman gave me the wrong one. At this point I really don't care, because the Vette is running now and with the help of you guys, like Joel Adams, Anips, Ken, Mark it was worth. I'm glad to have joined this site because of people like you. As time goes on, I know I can count on you guys.

I may have jump the gun alittle. I went back out to start the Vette after letting it run for about 30 mins and then a cool down of 20 more mins, and now it won't start again. I'm not that much upset because it was running awhile ago, now I know that everything is fine but it seems that something is shorting out my starting system. I'm still getting spark, gas, etc. Would anyone know what might be causing this non-starting issue?

Have you run across any Gypsy women lately? Maybe she put a hex on your 'Vette!
At this point, I would think you have to just give up.(NOT!) just kiddin'!
When you say you put the old one (dist) back in, exactly what all new parts were in it when it started? I think I would start at the top, and change one part at a time, until it started. Change the coil, & try to start. Then change the mod., & try to start, etc. I know there are ways to check each part individually, except maybe the mod., but I would want to know NOW! (I'm a wee bit impatient) Don't forget, a bad rotor, or cap could create this problem, too. Does the cap have the small "tit" (sorry, ladies! ) sticking through it to the rotor? Sometimes it will be worn down, or burned thru, and the fire won't go to the rotor, out to the plug wires. Make sure the "tit' is in the cap first, and then the rubber "insulator" on top of that, next to the bottom of the coil.
Sometimes the cap has a crack in it , and when the coil fires, it shorts out over to the screws that hold the coil into the cap.
Just a few more things to ruin yer day! Hope there's something here that will help.

You have two wires running to the dist., 12V and a tach wire, check the 12V wire for breaks ,take a close look at the plastic connector where the wire goes into the connector, anyone, would a bad elec. tack short the dist., a bad ign switch on the run leg of the switch, we know the eng. cranks, could we check the switch by "hot wiring" from the 12V pole on the generator to the 12V conn. on the dist. and cranking the motor?

Hey Joel and Anips, thanbks for the info, but something is causing the module and or the coil to go bad. I hot wired the 12v to the gen, and nothing, I changed the coil, nothing, I changed the module, it started again, let it sit for a while no start. I changed the module again and it started up again, let it sit-and then no start again. I maybe wrong but it seems that something it causing the module to go bad. Would you know want would be causing this? Joel you asked when I put the old dist back in, what new parts went in, it was a new coil, module, cap, and rotor.

Sorry, never seen a problem like yours before, so it runs one time and when you shut it off the mod is toast, thats exspensive, how many have you gone through, this is a question for Ken I believe.