I bought a new ignition switch for my 75 Coupe, and as you can see in the picture, it is a mirror image of the one that was in my car.  This was supposed to be for a 75 Corvette.

Does anyone know which one is actually the correct one for a 75?

After checking the one that was in my car, it appears to work okay, so I will put it back in.

I have been having problems sometimes with starting (nothing happening), running (cut off while driving), and the acc position quit working long ago.  I guess the problem is actually in the fuse panel, which is something I can't even see. . . (somehow my mechanic is able to replace fuses when I bring it to him -- I guess he is some kind of contortionist!

If I knew of someone who could rewire everything behind the dash, I'd do it.  I'm not about to tackle that!

You must have one of those carnival show mirrors....lol. They don't look the same to me, but....could just be me.

A switch can work ok when testing with an ohm meter and such, but they can certainly fail, or act up under a load. A switch that has be mis-adjusted for some time can actually burn the contacts on the inside and cause problems that can be hard to find. I've had several over the years that would crank the engine over fine, but would not allow it to fire until the key was released just a tad. That being said, if the new switch has the same connector, and will plug in, might as well go ahead and replace it since you already have the old one off....and keep the old one for a spare....just in case!

Well, they are not the same.  The new one would have to mount opposite of the way the original one mounts (it would then sit on top of the column, not beside it as the original one did), and that would require bending the rod that moves the switch.

I did find out why the "acc" position did not work -- the key on the new column does not turn far enough to push the rod far enough!

If I recall, there are two switches for mid-70s cars: one for tilt columns and another for non-tilt. Is it possible you got the wrong one?

Check the "Made in" stamp. It MAY indicate why it is sporadic in function. I had a brake light switch for a 72' that worked the same way. As soon as I installed one with a "U" and a "S" on it, my difficulties dissolved. 

Ah yes, you are correct.  I didn't look close enough when I ordered it, and ordered the wrong one.
Thanks!

So I ordered the correct one, and it did eliminate the wiring issue.  Appears to work fine.

Good to hear!