Topic: ignition switch/key probs... frustration building.
in Forum: C3 Electrical
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hi guys!
racking my brain here and need some help.
sorry this is long but here's what i know:
my key lock cylinder on the column has always been loose/sloppy.
last week i was in a hurry and quickly turned the key off as i was getting out of the car.
the lock cylinder went to the "off" position and the key was in my hand. but the car was still running.
had to pull the coil wire to kill it. i replaced the ignition switch and i'm in the process of replacing the key lock cylinder.
i replaced the ignition switch, and the car still does this:
1. it will start no problem and i can drive it around. yay!
2. when i turn the key off, it still runs. UNTIL i drop it in reverse. then "reverse" kills the motor. (but only if the key is in the "off" position)
3. it wont start in neutral or any other gear than "park".
4. while i had the column down (thanks pete and bob!) i manually worked the ignition switch with a screwdriver. i pushed it to the "run" position and the car started fine. however, when i pulled it to the "off" position, it continued to run like it did with the key.
if i manually work the switch, it should shut off in the "off" position, correct?
OR does the key/lock cylinder work in conjunction with the ignition switch to kill the motor??
i also noticed that the new lock cylinder (that i'm going to replace this weekend) has a couple moving parts. does one of these parts help to kill the motor?
could this be electrical???
like i said, sorry so long but i could use any advice you have. kinda stumped here.
thanks!
jeff
racking my brain here and need some help.
sorry this is long but here's what i know:
my key lock cylinder on the column has always been loose/sloppy.
last week i was in a hurry and quickly turned the key off as i was getting out of the car.
the lock cylinder went to the "off" position and the key was in my hand. but the car was still running.
had to pull the coil wire to kill it. i replaced the ignition switch and i'm in the process of replacing the key lock cylinder.
i replaced the ignition switch, and the car still does this:
1. it will start no problem and i can drive it around. yay!
2. when i turn the key off, it still runs. UNTIL i drop it in reverse. then "reverse" kills the motor. (but only if the key is in the "off" position)
3. it wont start in neutral or any other gear than "park".
4. while i had the column down (thanks pete and bob!) i manually worked the ignition switch with a screwdriver. i pushed it to the "run" position and the car started fine. however, when i pulled it to the "off" position, it continued to run like it did with the key.
if i manually work the switch, it should shut off in the "off" position, correct?
OR does the key/lock cylinder work in conjunction with the ignition switch to kill the motor??
i also noticed that the new lock cylinder (that i'm going to replace this weekend) has a couple moving parts. does one of these parts help to kill the motor?
could this be electrical???
like i said, sorry so long but i could use any advice you have. kinda stumped here.
thanks!
jeff
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Jeff, sorry man hav'nt a clue. I want to watch this one to the finish.
You covered the NSS and Ign switch. It sounds elect, but maybe in the key cyl.
Guna have to put this one in Joels hands I think.
Stay calm, don't bust nuthin.
You are getting a feed back from another system into the ignition system. Try disconnecting the alternator, then starting the car and shutting it off. It is likely it will stop. If so, you have a current from the alternator feeding back to the key. A new regulator installed in the alt will usually cure the problem. You could have a short from the ignition signal to the alternator also causing the feedback. You don't need to disconnect the batt term from the alt, just the plug on the side.
kstyer 2009-09-03 18:41:31
It dies when you drop it in reverse and there is not power due to the fact when the alt quits spinning, the charging system stops and there is no power for the feed back.
Could be the starter circuit that bypasses the resistor to the coil to give more more spark during starting could be still actuated after start (Starter Sol.) I think yellow wire to R of the starter according to diagram.
well just my luck it wasnt as easy as the alternator. go figure....
i unhooked the alt and started the car...sure enough it still runs after i turn the key off.
so, i'm pretty green when it comes to electrical. any suggestions on where to start???
thanks!
i unhooked the alt and started the car...sure enough it still runs after i turn the key off.
so, i'm pretty green when it comes to electrical. any suggestions on where to start???
thanks!
if you have a test light or a meter ck for power on the plus side of the coil with the key off, if power determine which color wire has the power on it. then we can see witch way to go.

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I'm kinda inclined to agree with Bob on this one....the yellow wire from the starter solenoid to the coil is prolly shorted, causing the coil to have full-time voltage.
I have seen the terminals on the starter solenoid get loose, and turn enough to actually touch the center(12v batt) terminal.
You can simply test the wire for voltage with the key OFF. IF there is voltage there key off, you've found the problem. If the yellow wire is not hot key off, then the problem has to be on the ignition resistor wire, coming from the ignition switch.Adams' Apple 2009-09-05 19:52:43
I have seen the terminals on the starter solenoid get loose, and turn enough to actually touch the center(12v batt) terminal.
You can simply test the wire for voltage with the key OFF. IF there is voltage there key off, you've found the problem. If the yellow wire is not hot key off, then the problem has to be on the ignition resistor wire, coming from the ignition switch.
Joel Adams
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in Forum: C3 Electrical
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