Topic: Ignition System Car does not start
in Forum: C3 Electrical

|UPDATED|11/27/2014 11:54:54 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Yeah, I know, Shut up Dave.


I have a guy that does my handyman work work on it under my supervision a lot of the time.

Moderator
Check the reverse lights, and let us know if they work or not.

btw...starter solenoids can take a doo-doo at just about any time, but it always seems they do it at the worst possible time. In most cases, it's just the main terminal has burned when it makes contact with the plunger. You can loosen the nut on that terminal(the large, center terminal that the battery cable goes to), push it into the solenoid body just a bit, and spin the terminal around 180 degrees, tighten the nut back up, and have a new surface for the plunger to make contact on. I've saved myself, and others the cost of the solenoid just by doing that many times. Just a thought.

|UPDATED|11/26/2014 11:10:31 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"


Just got back from the Corvette. The backup lights come on when the car is in reverse. They are off in all other positions.
From what you said I'm guessing that it is more than likely I have an ignition solenoid issue.
So it would not be unreasonable to either do as you suggested with the bolt or replace the solenoid. But I'm thinking the bolt is more of an emergency thing to do than a long term fix. It could also be a troubleshooting tool. If it worked then it is the solenoid if it did not work it could still be the solenoid.
With that in mind I'm leaning towards purchasing the $22 solenoid (most likely made in china) then if that works ordering a AC-Delco solenoid and putting that in later.
Does that all seem reasonable?

Moderator

Turning the terminal on the solenoid is no more of a temporary fix than replacing the solenoid. When you turn the key to "Start", the purple wire powers up an electromagnet in the solenoid, which then pulls the starter drive gear(bendix) forward. When that happens, it also moves the terminal for the starter motor up against the battery terminal of the solenoid, making contact, which powers up the starter motor so it turns, and cranks the engine. These terminals only make contact on 1/2 of the surface of the solenoid terminal. As this happens many times over the years, the brass terminal(on the solenoid) tends to burn, eventually burning to a point where the drive terminal no longer makes contact. Loosening the terminal, and turning it 180 gives you 100% of the same contact area it had originally....just in a different location. Sometimes, if the terminal is burnt, it will still allow the starte drive to engage the flywheel(clunk), but not turn the starter motor. Just depends on the mode of failure. Whether you twist the terminal, or put a new solenoid in, the burning is still going to take place....no way around it. I need to dig one of my GM starters out and show how to do this, and to show how bad the terminals can get over time.
You could check for a full 12v on the purple wire at the solenoid(small purple wire on the solenoid terminal "S" closest to the engine block) to see if it is getting full power from the NSS/ignition switch. If it has a full 12v there in the "Start" position, with no click or crank, then the solenoid is toast. If you do NOT have 12v there in "Start", then you would need to check the NSS, and/or ignition switches further to find the problem. In your case, I bet replacing the solenoid will correct the problem.

btw...a ground problem would show as a loss of power to everything....lights, radio, etc., when trying to crank the engine.
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"


|UPDATED|11/27/2014 8:07:49 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
