I think I have it!!

No I didnt fix the problem but instead I replaced the whole dist with a proform billet 50,000V new distributor.

I dropped right in and fired right up didnt even need to rotate the oil pump even though I cleaned my garage looking for for big ass screw driver just in case.

The down side....

After I got my garage orament back up and purring I decided to diagnose the blower/ac that quite working suddenly a few months back. While tracing the power with my test light I discovered a connector with 8 wires that was melted and barely making connection. I carefully cut each wire and replaced the connector wire crimp barrels hoping that the electrics would work again.... no deal. I guess my next test will be the relay on the fire wall that powers this stuff as soon as I figure out how to test it.

Does anyone have a good easy to read scematic that might help? I have an nice haynes wireing diagram but I cant see anything between the fuse block and the relay that could be open ( the relay has power and I can jump the realy with my test light and power up te fan)

The saga continues....

Ed

Ed, is that relay a 5 terminal? If so it's the high speed blower relay.
One wire comes out of the relay to the blower motor (purple?).
One is a constant power supply in (orange or red?) It only uses this as a power supply when the relay is active and on high. It supplies battery power directly to the blower motor.
A third wire is the power from the blower switch and blower resistors. This goes in and back out of the relay on any speed but high. At this point the relay is off.
The two remaining wires are the control circuit to turn on the relay. One is grounded and the other is powered by the high speed position on the blower switch. The first three are in a stright line, the control circuit is the two off to the sides.

Hope this helps

Ken Styer

All fixed, the relay tested fine.

The problem was two-fold...
A partially blown fuse (25A) and a shorted/melted connector on the AC compressor.

Thanks for your help Ken